Type: Boulder, 15 ft (5 m)
FA: Boone Speed fall/winter 1994
Page Views: 3,068 total · 33/month
Shared By: skinny legs and all on Dec 10, 2013 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: UDOT will ticket cars parked on the south side of the canyon opposite the Secret Garden bouldering area. Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Shingles is one of the best hard boulder problems in Little Cottonwood Canyon, if not Utah, and is certainly one of the most popular. Originally graded V10/11, the crux hold has crumbled and gotten bigger. Today it is considered solid V9 in an area that is notorious for sandbags. Some people might consider Shingles hard for the grade.

Begin by sitting in the dirt with both hands on edges. A thin crash pad may prove helpful for the start, as the holds make your body want to grovel down and into the overhang to start climbing. Make a relatively easy move to grasp the crux left hand hold. It is a very thin sidepull crimp/pinch with a crucial thumb catch. This hold is small...but sort of large. It is deceiving. Shift the feet, crimp on for all you are worth and deadpoint with the right hand to a railish feature with an edge behind it. This is a big move, and is very powerful. From here, you are on good holds, moving into a juggy three finger pocket. You are into the stand start at V4 or V5. Set up to make a big move out right to the arete, then another long move to a sloping jug. A heel hook out right is helpful for some folks. Gain a flake and pick your way up a tall slab peppered with large holds. The finish is quite high, though no harder than 5.8.

Congratulations! You have just become the 1,527th person to send Shingles.

Location

The obvious, main line on the Tiger Stripe boulder. To find the boulder, go down the trail past secret garden to the second trail post you will see and go left (if coming from park and ride) up an obvious trail. Once you have reached the first boulder trend left and the tiger stripe boulder should be just up the path

Protection

Pads

Photos