Avg: 3.8 from 6 votes
|Type:||Boulder, 15 ft (5 m)|
|FA:||Boone Speed fall/winter 1994|
|Page Views:||3,068 total · 33/month|
|Shared By:||skinny legs and all on Dec 10, 2013 · Updates|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Begin by sitting in the dirt with both hands on edges. A thin crash pad may prove helpful for the start, as the holds make your body want to grovel down and into the overhang to start climbing. Make a relatively easy move to grasp the crux left hand hold. It is a very thin sidepull crimp/pinch with a crucial thumb catch. This hold is small...but sort of large. It is deceiving. Shift the feet, crimp on for all you are worth and deadpoint with the right hand to a railish feature with an edge behind it. This is a big move, and is very powerful. From here, you are on good holds, moving into a juggy three finger pocket. You are into the stand start at V4 or V5. Set up to make a big move out right to the arete, then another long move to a sloping jug. A heel hook out right is helpful for some folks. Gain a flake and pick your way up a tall slab peppered with large holds. The finish is quite high, though no harder than 5.8.
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