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Routes in The Puzzle

Conundrum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cross Words S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: James Garrett and Kris Pietryga, 18 November 2007
Page Views: 106 total · 1/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Nov 19, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

After viewing it from afar and then while approaching it, I initially thought we'd be disappointed. We were surprised to find a fun granite slab with thought provoking moves. Unlike many LCC slab climbs that may contain hard pure friction and repetitve movement from chickenhead to chickenhead, this rock has many features. It becomes steeper than it appears from below. As it is more fractured, you will encounter some cracks that easily accept gear as well.

Pitch #1: Not all that homogenous at first, but it gets better the higher one climbs. Smooth slab passing 3 bolts to a large ledge after 40 feet....continue on to another bolt where the angle steepens passing two more bolts and a fixed piton. Belay at the ledge at a two bolt belay. 50m, 5.8.

Pitch #2: Climb directly above the belay on thin puzzling moves to a bolt. Continue up an arete like feature passing more bolts to a left trending crack to a small overhang. Climb above this to a lower angle slab and continue on about 10m to the anchors. Excellent rock and climbing that stirs up your brain cells. Little bit of a thought provoking puzzler. 5 bolts 35m, 5.9.

Rappel the route with 1x 70m rope or two ropes.

Location

Continue up the Maybird Slide Gully going north (North side of Little Cottonwood Canyon)past the Sport climbs and the Butter Face on the west side (left) of the gully. Pass some smaller lower angle slabs on the East side (right) until you get to the larger Slab we called The Puzzle.

Protection

QDs and assorted super light rack of microcams to Jr. Camalots to #1 Camalot. Equipped and cleaned on lead from the ground up. Use caution as some loose rock may exist.
Thanks go out to Glen Kaplan for his meticulous cleaning during the second ascent.

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