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Routes in Coal Pit Buttress

Angering The Angered T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Buenaventura , The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coalpit Connection T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Direct North Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2-
DoggyStyle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
House of Cards T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
King Cobra Corner T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Misunderstood T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Time at Band Camp S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Organization for the Organized T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Precious Lost T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Refugees From Reality T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shizznit T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Stick Man S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stiffler's Mom T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stifflers Stiffy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stuck a Flute in My S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sumatra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tony's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Elevation: 6,483 ft
GPS: 40.569, -111.736 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 25,462 total, 170/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Aug 31, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

Description

This is the buttress in between the Triangle Wall and Pentapitch. It has lots of black roofs.
Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Getting There

After passing the pumphouse watch for the gated road on the right (here).

Park at the pullout and walk down the road or through the woods to cross the stream at a bridge. Walk down canyon until you see a trail branching off on your left just before you reach two large pine trees on the right side of the main trail.

Hike up the trail (like you're going to the Pentapitch Area).
But, at the bottom of the talus, punch it straight up; this will put you at the bottom of Stiffler's Mom.

Or, for a less steep approach, go to Pentapitch and walk east along the base.

19 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Coal Pit Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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maybe rap anchor for skiers or ice climbers? Nov 9, 2010
love how tc deleted his posts above. never undersood that. Jun 21, 2007
very true. Jun 20, 2007
Tony said (and I totally agree),

"I don't see any point in leaving emergency rappel anchors in place either."

cough, cough, snake pit... cough cough.

Not trying to add fuel to the fire either. I'm just saying that Tony told me he put in a bolted belay to bail in the rain off that route.

My point is not to flame you. We've all had to bail at one time or another and sometimes exploratory rappell anchors should be deleted - even if its a bolt next to a crack. Jun 19, 2007
glen kaplan
Salt Lake City, UT
glen kaplan   Salt Lake City, UT
BSmoot: you are absolutely correct! i hope we are o.k. disagreeing about what you intended to communicate and what I alone have interpreted from your post--i really do not mean to insult or disregard your input. it's weird, since you may consider this as a fuss, but i agree with you...no one should remove any 'important climber or non-climber history anchors' (pun intended) from our backyard!

what was/is the important climber history behind the bolt that was located above what i know as the 2-bolt slab of snakepit? (let's go out and i will show you exactly what/where)

i repeat...errr...we could not come up with any 'logical' reasons as to the location or purpose of this bolt--other than as an access bolt to look at the blank slab below...when that blank slab only revealed boring 5.8 to 5.9 (maybe harder if you only go straight up), whoever placed it moved on since it was not the wasatch gem they were hoping for...

since Tony, or Luke, or Tyler, or me, or anyone else putting new energy into that area cannot find any concrete recorded important history (about FA's or early exploration, etc.) besides what is available from this community, the past and present guidebooks, etc. then...

we now have a very interesting climbing area that offers beginners and intermediates a fun week's worth of climbing...

when i moved here 7 years ago...there really was only Pentapitch/surroundings and some non-descript weed wackers that seemed more nostalgic then anything else (i.e. not worth it)...sure, i've come to learn that it really ALL has been climbed before...and i mean all of it...

how often did/do you climb over there (between the east shoulder of coalpit--aka the tree route and vicinity--all the way west to endless torment and pentatpitch?)

since you been here a real long time, i expect the answer to this rhetoric to be "i've climbed over there hundreds of times..." i'd like to assume you know what i really mean:

Yes, let's not remove important historical evidence of our climbing roots.
However, there seems to be a new "movement" or "consciousness" if you will...and some of our predecessor's mistakes/experiments are gonna need to take a back seat...cause there are alot more minds contributing to this new movement then there were back when these "lone" bolts and anchors were installed...

If Tony or anyone else were to remove hardware from an actual worthy route...then...let's retaliate... Jun 15, 2007
bsmoot  
Glen:

My question and comment are IMO very valid, If you want to interpret my post as "challenging" you're free to do so. When someone pulls out old bolts like that your robbing other climbers of important historical information. Jun 15, 2007
glen kaplan
Salt Lake City, UT
glen kaplan   Salt Lake City, UT
BSmoot,
I really know that TC has some baggage and what not, especially here on this site. But,I think your question is just more fuel for that fire...it seems challenging, to me anyway. Maybe a more effective question would be, 'TC, yeah, now that I think about it...I do know a little about the fixed hardware up there eventhough its not in any of the books...let's get together and see whats up before you pull anything else...I care about that history!"

or something to that affect.

I'm not trying to be a smart ass or a soul supporter for TC, I just believe there is a better solution...TC is gonna be out there doing his thing...in fact, he'll probably be out there more than anyone else...and last time I was up there in that area with him, we did pull some old hardware...let me tell you...the only logical explanation we could come up with as to why it was located where it was...is because back in the hey day when you all were scurrying all over the wasatch looking for hard lines...some misc. hardware was fixed to allow better exploration access (e.g. we found an old, unsafe bolt on top of a ledge wehre snakepit goes near. the only thing we could think of was it was used to check out the blank slab below in hopes of finding that 'hardass' climb that it seems y'all were searching for 20 years ago...)

again, i do not intend to be a smartass or a dick (with the elder joke)...i've told you before, i respect history too, and the work that you do! while not totally on the same page as TC, i think he is generally within the rules and guidelines on his decisions--at least in this present day and age! ha! that's a jab at you TC...we'll talk about it...out on the rock! Jun 12, 2007
bsmoot  
Tony:

Why are you removing old bolts? You're erasing history. Jun 11, 2007

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