Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: Luke Malatesta et al, FFA: Mason Earle, November 2010
Page Views: 7,657 total · 86/month
Shared By: Spencer Weiler on Sep 27, 2011
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Description

Climb the low angle dihedral start of Bad Moki Roof but head right under the big roof along positive holds in the horizontal crack, clipping the fixed draws, rather then up the leftward thin hand crack of BMR. Most of the holds are good but feet are non-existent so some horizontal positioning is required to prevent campusing the route. Really fun. Crux comes right at the end.

Location

Same start as Bad Moki Roof. Look for the fixed draws heading horizontally below a big roof.

Protection

A few small pieces in the .3 to .75 camalot range for Bad Moki start, one draw for first bolt, then fixed draws to finish.
Jeremy Steck
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Jeremy Steck   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Great climb! I found that campusing some sections is far easier than spending the time to get your feet in the flake. Hard to make the clips. A few of the holds toward the end are somewhat friable. Oct 10, 2011
D-Storm
  5.13-
D-Storm  
  5.13-
I played on this route last spring and it is a lot of fun. It was also scary at the time. The first bolt was hanging a couple inches out of its straight-up placement in the roof; I pushed it back in and tightened it down with my fingers and continued cautiously, clipping two fixed draws. Between the third bolt (second fixed draw) and the "anchor" there was a hole that was apparently missing a bolt. I gave a couple half-hearted attempts at the crux before walking away — the missing bolt made it pretty scary to try very hard, because the swings were big and I came within 3 or 4 feet of grazing the slab below. I wondered if someone cleaned the fourth bolt and loosened the first to deter attempts without red-tagging the route, or just to add more excitement. In the photo, it looks like the missing bolt has been replaced? Oct 18, 2011
m-earle
USA
m-earle   USA
I believe I did the FFA on this one (nov 2010). The bolt twists out from people hanging on the route I would guess. Glue-ins would work well for this pitch. Press out the mantle at the end, or no send!! Mar 24, 2012
Could someone please put in the first bolt of this!!! Jun 16, 2012
The first ascent was done free. bolts came later Oct 3, 2013
ben jammin
Moab, UT
ben jammin   Moab, UT
I agree with Mason, no mantle, no send. Although the mantle is not getting any easier as holds break at the end.. Feb 21, 2014
Clark Aegerter 1
Orem, Utah
Clark Aegerter 1   Orem, Utah
So i got on this climb this weekend and i am wondering where this climb ends, Mason you said you have to pull the mantel and then what do you do? is it the chains way out to the right on the slabs? I am looking for the answers so that i can count this one... some day. :-) Nov 9, 2015
What a cool route! I would agree 5.12d through the roof, though the sandy and slopey mantle feels like it pushes the route to 13-. Perhaps it would be easier after the sand is blown off. The roof is really incredible though, I used a mix of campusing and heel/toe hooks. Apr 3, 2016