Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,334 total · 33/month
Shared By: Craig Quincy on May 9, 2003
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


215 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Description

If there are 40 routes on Wall Street then this definitely ranks in the Top 40. I wouldn't plan a road trip around it, but this is worth doing if you're looking for one of the few 5.8 leads in the desert or a warm up.

This left facing corner is distinguished by two drilled angles at the top.Upward progress can be made via almost any climbing technique: laybacking, jamming, stemming, etc. Locate the route on the left side of the cliff before encountering the second top roping area. To its left lies Lacto Mangulation (5.10b) a right facing corner with several bolts and to its right is skeletron (sp?) a bolted 5.11d.

Descent: Short rap to ground ~ 50 feet.

It looks possible to climb passed the anchor on Top 40 via a thin hand crack and achieve the top of the anchor on skeletron.

Protection

Standard rack (nuts fit in a couple spots) + 2 quickdraws for the drill angles.

Photos

One of the few 5.8's in the desert? If you can't find an overabundance of 5.8 you're not looking very hard, or at all. May 10, 2003
Scott Conner
Lyons, CO
Scott Conner   Lyons, CO
I thought this was a pretty fun route. It's easier than it looks. It's not only possible to climb the finger crack up and right of the anchors, it's part of the route and worth doing IMO. Barring communication issues and another party ascending Skeletron, these two short pitches can be combined. Be mindful of the loose blocks on the ledge near the Skeletron anchors. May 15, 2003
Rhett Burroughs
Salt Lake City, UT
Rhett Burroughs   Salt Lake City, UT
Seemed harder than 5.8 to me. Maybe because I was worn out from the day.. I dunno! Oct 18, 2007
JeffUT
Roy, Utah
 
JeffUT   Roy, Utah
 
There's a nice ledge to stand on to the right of the belay anchors. I ended up setting a #3 Friend before I got to the first bolt. Fun route. May 24, 2010
Jesse Western
ogden utah
Jesse Western   ogden utah
Cool route man... I think Jorma Hayes is the culprit behind this first ascent! Ya baby! I'll give the dude a buzz, I'm pretty sure though :) Oct 28, 2010
John Braun
Hendersonville, NC
 
John Braun   Hendersonville, NC
 
Somebody pounded in a piton about 6' up this route, they obviously put it in standing on that little ledge. Sure, the beginning is a little tricky, but seriously, a piton? It's since been removed. Oct 24, 2011
leodelta  
 
felt a little stiffer than 5.8 to me. Oct 26, 2014
Lexi Q  
definitely stiffer than a 5.8 Nov 1, 2015
Eric Thomas
Colorado
Eric Thomas   Colorado
Good beginner trad lead -- 1 tiny nut, #1, #2, 2 quickdraws is all you need. Feb 20, 2016
Austin Martin
Chattanooga, TN
Austin Martin   Chattanooga, TN
If "Lacto Mangulation" to the left is 5.10b, than this is at least 5.10a in my opinion. Thinner than it looks, and certainly not 5.8 comparatively. Great climb, get on it! Oct 29, 2016
Tombo
Boulder
  5.9+
Tombo   Boulder
  5.9+
^^^^^^
Agree. Personally think it's harder then Lacko Mangulation but then again I didn't like the start off of small gear. Dec 4, 2016
Funny, I found this way easier than 30 Seconds Over Potash - another nearby 5.8.

Thin start and small gear. Over in a heart beat. May 9, 2017
Holden Marsh
Eugene, OR
  5.8+
Holden Marsh   Eugene, OR
  5.8+
Short but fun. I'm 6 feet tall, and could just barely reach up from the starting ledge to fit I think a purple metolius TLC into the one wide spot of the thin opening seam. I watched another climber who looked far stronger but shorter than I have trouble with the beginning. Nov 5, 2018