Type: , 80 ft
FA: FA - P.Gallagher, K. Gunther circa 1988
Page Views: 3,693 total · 20/month
Shared By: Craig Quincy on Mar 9, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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53 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Description

No lines at the base of this route. As the name implies, this is an offwidth. It is located right of Potstash, an obvious 5.9 sport pitch on a roadcut, and left of Big Sky Mud Flaps. There are a wide variety of interesting moves required on this route, but the crux boils down to good old fashion off width grunting.

At any rate, adequate protection can be had with a #5 camalot (or 2) and a rack of standard gear. If you have something bigger, bring it as the #5 camalot will tip out and fall out at the most desperate places.

I'd recommend left side in on the bottom section. I stymied myself at the crux by going right side in, and now I'm of the opinion it would be better to go left side in on the upper section. Fortunately there's a drilled angle at the crux if you get discombobulated.

Protection

Standard rack, plus whatever wide gear you can find.

Photos

FA - P.Gallagher, K. Gunther circa 1988

The FA party finished the route just in time to drive down to Montecello to appear in front of the Federal Magistrate to beat a bogus NPS ticket for illegal parking out at Monster Tower.

A good day was had all around! Three stars if you like offwidths.... May 12, 2004
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.10a
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.10a
What a great offwidth, rarely ever see anyone climbing this. May 10, 2006
max gibbons
AZ y TO
max gibbons   AZ y TO
Hell yeah! We found cobwebs in the eye of the drilled angle. "That's how you know it's a good route," quote Adam Steel. Apr 6, 2010
Nick Zmyewski
Newark, Delaware
Nick Zmyewski   Newark, Delaware
I gave this a go yesterday. I made it out of the pod before having to hang. Great offwidth, and the pin seems good. There were cobwebs along parts of the climb. Apr 2, 2013
Well, just for laughs, here's a different experience. I tried to climb this over the weekend but a couple speaking what I think was French was on it, the dude valiantly grunting and thrashing his way upwards in shorts and a tee shirt. I was low on time so moved on. What are the odds? I mean from what is posted above Im probably the unluckiest climber ever! Oct 14, 2013
asoe
Moab, Utah
asoe   Moab, Utah
I sent this yesterday as my first ever OW and am hooked! Great combination of grunting and a few relaxing face options by way of pinches near the middle. Three of us climbed it and had three variations of the crux, love the choose your own adventure side of it. Nov 2, 2013