Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Kyle Copeland, Layton Kor
Page Views: 3,820 total · 18/month
Shared By: J. Hickok on Oct 31, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


66 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Description

This is kind of a sporty route, as far as climbing with gear goes. Little bit everything on this one from a hand jam, to finger slots, to not-so-obvious stemming to friction. It doesn't look like much from the ground, but it climbs fairly well.

If you're a snobby climber - don't bother with this one. We'd all hate to hear another whiny climber. However, if you're the type of climber that likes to climb for the sake of experience, versatility, and simple fun, then put on those shoes and put this baby up.

If you're up for it, on the way down Visible Panty Line, set up a top-rope on High Over Datura to the right. Although the TR of this face might not be worth it to you unless you are willing to try 5.11+ friction and balance. It's a humbling and a learning experience.

Protection

Mostly TCUs and stoppers. Actually, I probably only slotted one nut. One friend for down lower, don't remember which size, but you can tell from the ground what you'll need. One quickdraw for a piton at the crux.

Photos

Petsfed
Laramie, WY
  5.9
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
  5.9
Easy for the grade. May 31, 2006
Lynn S
 
Lynn S  
 
Two new ASCA anchor bolts and a new protection bolt replacing the drilled pin. Dec 2, 2015
Cody Goldberg
Lakewood, Colorado
  5.9+
Cody Goldberg   Lakewood, Colorado
  5.9+
Sweet climb, with lots of variety. Small cams down to TCU and up to .75. Stopper placements are tricky or marginal. Wishing I'd have had three metoulious blues. May 1, 2017
Dan Earhart  
 
Really comfortable lead for a newer trad climber. Plenty of gear to be placed and bomber bolt about half way up the route. A great mix of face climbing and crack climbing techniques on this one. Trust your feet and stem your way to the chains. Nov 27, 2018