Type: Trad
FA: FA: Linus Platt
Page Views: 8,592 total · 42/month
Shared By: Wes Allen on Feb 28, 2002 with updates from George Perkins
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


329 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Description

Fun roadside route between 30 seconds over potash and nervous in suburbia. Starts off as hands, moves to fingers, with a cool couple face moves, then back to fingers. Watch out for a couple loose flakes toward the top (someone drew a big chalk "NO" on one of them). They seem pretty solid; just don't pull out on them to hard.

Protection

Mix of stoppers, small cams, and a couple hand sized cams.
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Fun route- different cruxes depending on body and finger size. Short people have trouble with using the arete on the right and going up left to the big sloper edge (normal crux). Big people have trouble getting fingers in down even lower. I have small fingers and long arms, but that considered, I still felt this climb was nearly a full number grade harder than some of the 5.10a's at potash.A small stopper (very small) can be placed at your waist at the crux.

Fun and cruxy. Not like the normal desert cracks.

5.10c. Harder if you are short. All 4 members of our party agreed. May 5, 2003
Shane Zentner
Colorado
  5.10a
Shane Zentner   Colorado
  5.10a
Grabbing the arete is awkward but effective. I placed something small at the crux, I believe a small alien. There is a flake near the top of the route that is hollow(Pull down, not out!). Fingers to face climbing. Check out the 5.8 dihedral to the right. Mar 15, 2004
Lynn S
  5.10a/b
Lynn S  
  5.10a/b
00 C3 will be at your waist for the bouldery crux move. Reached up left for the edge, the higher you reach the less greasy the hold. Smear with the left and step up with the right in the corner, slam a jam in the next opening. Fun climbing. Mar 13, 2009
Fun route. I was there last week and a local told me they recently took the large flake at the top down with a crowbar, so don't worry about trying to be careful--it's no longer there. Mar 30, 2009
Skyler Penrod
  5.10a
Skyler Penrod  
  5.10a
Fun route, great lead with good pro. There is only one small .10a sequence on the route. You have a good piece(#1 Camelot)underneath you so don't sweat it! Apr 24, 2009
Abandoned User
  5.10-
Abandoned User  
  5.10-
Brian, and everyone, the death flake at the top is still there, and even if it wasn't, continue to be careful. There's a lot of loose rock near the top. Hard crux move in my opinion. Nov 2, 2009
timothyrgriffen Griffen  
  5.10b/c
Super fun route. Not sure if I could agree with the consensus of a 5.10a grade. The crux is pretty hard 5.10b-5.10c. The rest of the route is crusier though. May 4, 2012
Joseph Lascurain
Cincinnati
  5.10b/c
Joseph Lascurain   Cincinnati
  5.10b/c
The crux might not be so bad if the feet weren't polished in this section. Otherwise if feels pretty hard for 10a. I felt that there was no move even close to as hard as this crux on Flakes of Wrath which seemed much more than a slight grade easier IMO. Anyways fun route. Nov 1, 2012
Tyson Waldron
Reno, NV
  5.10b
Tyson Waldron   Reno, NV
  5.10b
Really delicate crux. I thought this line was awesome. I doubled my pro at the crux and hoped the rubber would stick! Nov 22, 2013
Emily C Sukiennik
Sedona, AZ
 
Emily C Sukiennik   Sedona, AZ
 
Love!!! This was my first 5.10 trad lead, and a great one at that. Small hands at the crux and some difficulty placing gear where you want to place your fingers. A great challenge. May 27, 2015
Michael Dom  
 
Mostly awkward, I didn't find any memorable moves on this guy. Dec 22, 2015
Mackay Crabbe 1
Moab, Utah
Mackay Crabbe 1   Moab, Utah
This climb got a whole lot easier this past winter. Whether somebody chipped it out or just getting climbed, fresh after a rain, there is a easy step in the crack right in the middle of the crux move. Made the climb into a 5.9 in my opinion. Still fun but way easier than it used to be! Feb 24, 2017
Tyler N
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10
Tyler N   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10
Definitely still 5.10.
As of last weekend there was a nut pretty well welded in right before the crux. Nov 1, 2017
Here is a beta video for the route: youtu.be/nAQod_1L1A4 Mar 24, 2018