Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 8,960 total · 73/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Nov 4, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Description

This well bolted slab route is located just to the right of the bush below Puppy Love. Pull a 5.7 move off the deck and clip the first of many closely spaced bolts. A good intro to soft sandstone fiction climbing. Rap from a two bolt anchor at 90ft to prevent deep rope groves from top ropping.

This route used to have only 2 bolts on it.

Location

This well bolted slab roue is located to the right of Puppy Love and Steel your Face.

Protection

7-8 bolts

Photos

Andy VanHouten
Park City, UT
Andy VanHouten   Park City, UT
Wow. Every year this get's alittle worse. Decent pockets but the whole frickin' route is covered in sand...hard to use "friction" when you are standing on sand covered sandstone. Groves at the top are getting pretty bad...be sure to rap off. May 11, 2009
JeffUT
Roy, Utah
 
JeffUT   Roy, Utah
 
My 14 yr. old son's first lead climb. First move was the only 5.7 in my opinion, the rest was like walking up a steep ramp. Good one to train someone on, as long as you don't have to lower them off. Rapping down is highly recommended. May 24, 2010
Ty Meadows
Moab, UT
Ty Meadows   Moab, UT
Good foot work. Major rope drag. Use a 70 meter. Jun 30, 2010
Conor Raney
Pinedale, WY
Conor Raney   Pinedale, WY
nice easy going route. It's relaxing and a fun warmup as well as a training route. Oct 31, 2010
Eric Odenthal
Moab, UT
  5.7
Eric Odenthal   Moab, UT
  5.7
knot the end of your rope! Jul 8, 2011
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
 
The route should have anchors after the third bolt. The top part of the climb is literally a walk up. Apr 29, 2013
Toby Wehler
Indianapolis, IN
  5.5
Toby Wehler   Indianapolis, IN
  5.5
Had to skip some upper bolts due to lack of quick draws...didn't realize this route was so long looking at it from the ground. Thought it was fun though. May 28, 2013
Rick Vermeil
Erie, CO
  5.7
Rick Vermeil   Erie, CO
  5.7
I agree with Garret's comment above. Way over bolted and too long. This route is pointless after the fourth bolt. A 5.7- move to clip the first bolt then 5.5 climbing to the fourth, followed by 5.4 down to hiking as you get closer to the anchor. I stood up and walked past the last three bolts to the anchor. I liked the start of the route but its unnecessarily long. They could of used some of these bolts on some of the other very poorly bolted routes on Wall Street. Apr 22, 2014
If you like climbing run out slab, with portions of hollowed sandstone then this the stuff for you... 60 meters works fine. Sep 20, 2014
Long, and not super fun, friction climb. A 60 meter rope worked fine for us too. Nov 12, 2014
Josh Cameron
California
  5.7
Josh Cameron   California
  5.7
An excellent first lead. Jan 29, 2015
Gavin W
Langley, BC
  5.8
Gavin W   Langley, BC
  5.8
Don't top rope, please rap off the anchors; the grooves are terrible. Also, way over-bolted after the 4th bolt. Definitely harder than a 5.7 at the start (the holds are getting worn down, the friction stuff is really sandy, and I climbed in the sun, which may have made things more difficult). Fun mantle-y moves through the crux though. A nearby group lent us a boulder pad for the lead, which was definitely useful. Thanks! May 6, 2015
Mathias
Loveland, CO
Mathias   Loveland, CO
I felt the start of this was harder than a 5.7. I didn't check the grade til after we climbed it, but I thought it was probably an .8 or a soft .9 based on some of the other adjacent routes. Though it does ease up substantially after the second bolt. May 24, 2015
John Stilley
California
  5.7
John Stilley   California
  5.7
A comfortable, fun beginner lead. Gets much easier as you get higher on the route. Nice and tall, too. Jun 7, 2017
John Sohl  
 
Fun route. The friction is really good (for sandstone). Starts at 5.7 then slowly backs down in difficulty. By the top it is 5.1. This would be a good beginner leader route. Unlike some climbs that start hard then is a cake walk, this eases off nicely, still making you think as you go past the first few bolts. Apr 14, 2018