Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Herb Crimp, July 2008
Page Views: 2,694 total · 18/month
Shared By: Billy Smallen on Jul 27, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Description

Start below a giant flake to the right of Schoolroom #1. The crux is right off the ground so you may want a crash pad. Start in thin crimps that don't let up until you hit the flake--awesome moves! Once you reach the flake traverse right and place a #2 camalot or a #3 friend in the pod--then continue right. After placing another #2 Camalot (just as the flake jogs upward) do a huge undercling pullup and move right, clip a bolt (a kneebar may help for clipping) then traverse right to another undercling where you can get handjams (and a #1 Camalot). You may then want to place a 0.5 Camalot where the crack constricts. Traverse farther right where you can get a 0.3 camalot in a pod at your knee, then climb up, clipping a bolt, to the anchors!

Location

This route is the first route right of Schoolroom #1,and 2 climbs left of Smoke Filled Rooms on a giant flake that trends upriver from 15-40 feet off the ground.

Protection

3 Bolts, 2 #2 Camalots, 1 #0.3 Camalot, 1 #0.5 Camalot, 1 #1 Camalot

Photos