Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Herb Crimp, July 2008
Page Views: 2,381 total · 19/month
Shared By: Billy Smallen on Jul 27, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Description

Start below a giant flake to the right of Schoolroom #1. The crux is right off the ground so you may want a crash pad. Start in thin crimps that don't let up until you hit the flake--awesome moves! Once you reach the flake traverse right and place a #2 camalot or a #3 friend in the pod--then continue right. After placing another #2 Camalot (just as the flake jogs upward) do a huge undercling pullup and move right, clip a bolt (a kneebar may help for clipping) then traverse right to another undercling where you can get handjams (and a #1 Camalot). You may then want to place a 0.5 Camalot where the crack constricts. Traverse farther right where you can get a 0.3 camalot in a pod at your knee, then climb up, clipping a bolt, to the anchors!

Location

This route is the first route right of Schoolroom #1,and 2 climbs left of Smoke Filled Rooms on a giant flake that trends upriver from 15-40 feet off the ground.

Protection

3 Bolts, 2 #2 Camalots, 1 #0.3 Camalot, 1 #0.5 Camalot, 1 #1 Camalot

Photos

jakobi
moab, utah
jakobi   moab, utah
I'm afraid this climb has been chopped, perhaps a victim of the ridiculous Wall St. climber feud that's been going on the last couple of years. Sep 7, 2012
Ignorant comments from ignorant people, go figure... Oct 3, 2012
ben jammin
Moab, UT
 
ben jammin   Moab, UT
 
Bad boys... what ya gonna do, what ya gonna do when Keith (err, ummm, i mean rapchopper) chops your bolts, bad boys bad boys....... Oct 4, 2012
jakobi
moab, utah
jakobi   moab, utah
I've never chopped a bolt but I'd like to give it up to those individuals who sacrifice their free time; time when they could be climbing and having fun. Thanks for keeping me safe from climbing rap-bolted routes, terrorists and gay marriage. Oct 9, 2012
ben jammin
Moab, UT
 
ben jammin   Moab, UT
 
Well put Jakobi (whoever you are). Wow, well apparently people read this stuff and it has caused quite a stir. My apologies to Keith, I don't know who chopped this route, or any other route for that matter. Lets stay classy out there. Oct 9, 2012
Monkey Den Climber
moab, utah
Monkey Den Climber   moab, utah
Sam, it looks like you need to get some of your facts straightened out. Ethics have never left Wall Street, or Anywhere near Moab. Establish routes correctly, that way people enjoy the effort put into it. Oct 10, 2012
jason malczyk
General Delivery
jason malczyk   General Delivery
Ok new rule, for every route you chop you put up two new ones I figure every one gets to make up rules why not make a productive one Oct 10, 2012