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Routes in Wall Street

"Big Corner" T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
30 Seconds Over Potash T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
A Fistful of Potash T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Another Roadside Distraction T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arc Angel S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Armageddon S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Astro Dad T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Astro Lad T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Baby Blue T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bad Moki Roof T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Banana Peel S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Best Route Ever T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Beyer Offwidth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big Sky Mud Flaps S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blowing Chunks T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Bolts to Bumpy Land S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Broken Engagements 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3
Brown Banana S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brownie T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X
Campground Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chaco-late Chunk S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Chemistry T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
ChrisCross TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Coup D'etat T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dark Horse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Desp-Arete S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Diplomatic Immunity T A3
Dr Strange Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dunn Copeland T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
East Of Wrath T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eat the Rich T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
El Cracko Diablo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
El Face-o Diablo S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Enigma Campground Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Eyes of Falina T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Faith Flake T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Fernando S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fist Full of Potash Direct TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Flakes of Bongo TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a X
Flakes of Wrath T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flakes of Wrath Direct T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Frogs of a Feather T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good, The Bad, and the Potash, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Grama and the Green Suede Shoes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Half Pipe T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hidden Message S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
High Over Datura S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Holey Moley S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Horizontal Mambo T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
I Love Loosey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jacob's Ladder S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Jingus Launch T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X
Jug Roof T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Junk In The Trunk T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Just Another Pretty Face S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Knapping With The Alien S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lacto Mangulation T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Last Tango in Potash T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lip Balm Addict T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Little Tufa's T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lizard Skills S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lucy in the Sky with Potash T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Man After Midnight S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mephistopheles T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Midnight Frightening T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mini Me T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mini Skirt S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mississippi High Step S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mother Trucker T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Neopolitan S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nervous in Suburbia S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Fly Zone T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Pedigree Poodles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pinhead T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Points West T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Potash Bong Hit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Potash Sanction T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Potstash S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pounding the Frog S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Practical Religion S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Puppy Love T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ralph the Rat S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rhino Might S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Right Side In T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ring Pin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Room With A View T A2+
Room With A View (free) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Sand and Steel T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
School Room Slabs TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Seam As It Ever Was T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Seibernetics T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shadowfax S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
She-la the Peeler S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shoot Up or Shut Up T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skeletonic T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Slab Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smoke Filled Rooms T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Snakes Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Something Nasty T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Static Cling T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Steel Your Face S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stego Slab S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Summit Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Take A Chance On Me S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Tap Root T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tastes Like Chicken S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tempting the Guillotine T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Tired of Talus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Top 40 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twittin Shinkies T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Two Sides of Purple, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uncertain T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Under the Boardwalk S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unemployment Line T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unknown Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Visible Panty Line T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wake of the Flood T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Walk on the Wide Side 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Warsteiner S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Welcome to Anexia T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Willow Whip T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yogini S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zig Zag S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Herb Crimp, July 2008
Page Views: 2,305 total, 20/month
Shared By: Billy Smallen on Jul 27, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Poop Alert! Details
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Start below a giant flake to the right of Schoolroom #1. The crux is right off the ground so you may want a crash pad. Start in thin crimps that don't let up until you hit the flake--awesome moves! Once you reach the flake traverse right and place a #2 camalot or a #3 friend in the pod--then continue right. After placing another #2 Camalot (just as the flake jogs upward) do a huge undercling pullup and move right, clip a bolt (a kneebar may help for clipping) then traverse right to another undercling where you can get handjams (and a #1 Camalot). You may then want to place a 0.5 Camalot where the crack constricts. Traverse farther right where you can get a 0.3 camalot in a pod at your knee, then climb up, clipping a bolt, to the anchors!

Location

This route is the first route right of Schoolroom #1,and 2 climbs left of Smoke Filled Rooms on a giant flake that trends upriver from 15-40 feet off the ground.

Protection

3 Bolts, 2 #2 Camalots, 1 #0.3 Camalot, 1 #0.5 Camalot, 1 #1 Camalot

Photos

jason malczyk
General Delivery
jason malczyk   General Delivery
Ok new rule, for every route you chop you put up two new ones I figure every one gets to make up rules why not make a productive one Oct 10, 2012
Monkey Den Climber
moab, utah
Monkey Den Climber   moab, utah
Sam, it looks like you need to get some of your facts straightened out. Ethics have never left Wall Street, or Anywhere near Moab. Establish routes correctly, that way people enjoy the effort put into it. Oct 10, 2012
ben jammin
Moab, UT
 
ben jammin   Moab, UT
 
Well put Jakobi (whoever you are). Wow, well apparently people read this stuff and it has caused quite a stir. My apologies to Keith, I don't know who chopped this route, or any other route for that matter. Lets stay classy out there. Oct 9, 2012
jakobi
moab, utah
jakobi   moab, utah
I've never chopped a bolt but I'd like to give it up to those individuals who sacrifice their free time; time when they could be climbing and having fun. Thanks for keeping me safe from climbing rap-bolted routes, terrorists and gay marriage. Oct 9, 2012
ben jammin
Moab, UT
 
ben jammin   Moab, UT
 
Bad boys... what ya gonna do, what ya gonna do when Keith (err, ummm, i mean rapchopper) chops your bolts, bad boys bad boys....... Oct 4, 2012
Ignorant comments from ignorant people, go figure... Oct 3, 2012
jakobi
moab, utah
jakobi   moab, utah
I'm afraid this climb has been chopped, perhaps a victim of the ridiculous Wall St. climber feud that's been going on the last couple of years. Sep 7, 2012