Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,249 total · 32/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Oct 5, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


58 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Description

Starts right of Steel Your Face in the trees. This climb felt harder than Steel Your Face (10a), and was certainly more difficult to protect. Basically bad gear placements up a thin sandy seam, and of course, sandy slab climbing. Make sure to follow the easiest climbing about 2/3 of the way up (I got tunnel vision and tried to go straight to the next pin). Also, be careful of the crumbly flake near the top.

Gosh my review makes this climb sound fun, doesn't it?

Protection

Bring some cams to #2 camalot - small Splitter Cam would have been nice on this one - to supplement several drilled pitons.

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i tried this climb and felt like if i fell before i clipped the first bolt, either my cam placement would snake out of the shallow crack when my foot blew of the sandy foothold or i would fly into the nearest tree. The climbing isn't that good in my opinion and should be approached with caution. Oct 24, 2002
Scott Gilliam
Raleigh, NC
  5.9
Scott Gilliam   Raleigh, NC
  5.9
I thought this was a great route and definitely easier that Steel Your Face. The gear placement near the start was okay in my opinion, and though it might be a bit runout, it seemed fine. Here in NC we rarely get slab gear closer together than 30 feet. ;) Oct 27, 2003
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.9+ R
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.9+ R
Well worthwhile. Cams can be used to plug the occasional gaps between the drilled pegs. Obvious advice: look for the footholds, even if they are a bit sandy! In UK terms this would be worth E1 5b. Fortunately, the trickiest moves are next to the pegs. Oct 27, 2009
Clayton Rardon
Yucca Valley, CA
 
Clayton Rardon   Yucca Valley, CA
 
following the path of least resistance is the key. from the car the first drilled pin looks really far up, but I had tunnel vision and almost missed it. a nice gentle reminder of the climbing you can encounter on towers and big walls. Mar 31, 2010
Sam Feuerborn
Carbondale
 
Sam Feuerborn   Carbondale
 
In the UK I think this would be closer to HVS 4c. Not very technically trying just a bit sandy. Jul 18, 2010
anthony509 Excelsior
las vegas nv
  5.8+ PG13
anthony509 Excelsior   las vegas nv
  5.8+ PG13
The description comment is off--bad gear placements? Yes, I liked putting pro in before the first piton. There really is no other gear to place. This is a sport route. Yes, the first piton is a bit high and the rest are spread out. But, they are all very solid. Nov 9, 2010
The bolts are fine on this. You wont need any gear. Maybe somebody retro-bolted? I didn't find this runnout at all May 18, 2011
Cody Drool
BEAVERTON, OR
 
Cody Drool   BEAVERTON, OR
 
This climb hasnt been retro bolted [to my knowledge]. 4 fixed pitons lead to anchors. I climbed this without placing any gear. The first piton is a little high but did not feel very run out. Wind blown sand deposits on this route adding a level difficulty at a couple spots. Puppy Love is a bit mental. Classic sandstone climbing. Super fun May 21, 2011
grk10vq    
people tend to confuse this route with the .7 slab to the right? this starts in a cluster of trees and climbs a sandy crack past a few pitons and optional gear. the description is fairly accurate. May 21, 2011
I rescind my earlier comments about the bolts on this route. I later discovered that we were not on Puppy Love as I thought, but on She-La the Peeler to the right of Slab Route. So many lines, it is easy to get mixed-up if you are new to the area! I apologize for my confusion. May 31, 2011
Justin Skaare
CO
  5.9 PG13
Justin Skaare   CO
  5.9 PG13
Falling before the first bolt without pro would be a definite ankle breaker, however it's easily protected with a #2 or #3 C4. For comparison, the 1st bolt is just below the 3rd bolt of Steel your face (climbers left). Falling above bolt 3 would also suck, so don't do that (no pro that I could see). Apr 10, 2014
Josh Janes

  5.9
Josh Janes    
  5.9
While I'm thankful for your efforts, in the future consider using proper (stainless) glue ins next time: something that will not rust or crack. Unfortunately glued in pins will likely leave a huge mess when they eventually break down. Feb 27, 2015
Josh Janes

  5.9
Josh Janes    
  5.9
But evidently they don't if you've had to replace them.

Mountain Dreamer, I do a lot of rebolting work myself - I'm on your side and not trying to criticize or argue with you. You should consider getting in touch with the ASCA - if you're doing rebolting work they will provide you with the best hardware possible (even the glue!), so the only expense would be your time and labor (which I understand is considerable). Feb 27, 2015