Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Jim Beyer
Page Views: 5,340 total · 31/month
Shared By: Max Schon on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


20 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Description

Probably the best sport climb at Wall Street. To the right of 30 Seconds, about 50 yards. Easily recognizable by the dark varnished high quality rock. The start is very chalked. The crux is basically the first few moves off the ground. After the third bolt it gets easier, but the bolts get a little further.

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Matt McMurray
Castle Rock, CO
  5.12b
Matt McMurray   Castle Rock, CO
  5.12b
This is an excellent route! Difficult crimps and highsteps/high-foot smears down low lead to a bomber rest after the third bolt. Technical footwork and hand sequences continue to the top, maintaining the quality of the route.

BTW- The new "Classic Desert Climbs" guidebook rates this climb 5.12b/c, and calls it Black Horse. Seems to me that the crimp sequences are at least 5.12b, and that solid footwork is a must. Nov 27, 2006
sean barb
winston salem, north carolina,
 
sean barb   winston salem, north carolina,
 
a nice crank. got on this thinking it was something else and thinking i had started up an 11-. came away thinking, damn this place is a sandbag. Nov 4, 2009
Jim Beyer did the FA around '92 Mar 7, 2010
Paul Irby
moab, ut
5.12a
Paul Irby   moab, ut
5.12a
Excellent desert varnish and fun, techy climbing. The bolt spacing keeps things exciting. Apr 30, 2012
Will Wright
Mesa, AZ
  5.12a
Will Wright   Mesa, AZ
  5.12a
Clutch that crux clip and send the thing. I didn't feel any move was harder than 12-, but the bolt spacing keeps the game on. Unorthodox change-up climbing once you pull left and head for the finish. Mar 2, 2016