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Routes in Wall Street

"Big Corner" T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
30 Seconds Over Potash T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
A Fistful of Potash T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Another Roadside Distraction T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arc Angel S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Armageddon S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Astro Dad T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Astro Lad T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Baby Blue T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bad Moki Roof T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Banana Peel S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Best Route Ever T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Beyer Offwidth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big Sky Mud Flaps S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blowing Chunks T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Bolts to Bumpy Land S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Broken Engagements 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3
Brown Banana S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brownie T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X
Campground Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chaco-late Chunk S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Chemistry T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
ChrisCross TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Coup D'etat T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dark Horse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Desp-Arete S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Diplomatic Immunity T A3
Dr Strange Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dunn Copeland T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
East Of Wrath T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eat the Rich T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
El Cracko Diablo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
El Face-o Diablo S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Enigma Campground Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Eyes of Falina T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Faith Flake T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Fernando S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fist Full of Potash Direct TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Flakes of Bongo TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a X
Flakes of Wrath T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flakes of Wrath Direct T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Frogs of a Feather T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good, The Bad, and the Potash, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Grama and the Green Suede Shoes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Half Pipe T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hidden Message S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
High Over Datura S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Holey Moley S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Horizontal Mambo T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
I Love Loosey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jacob's Ladder S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Jingus Launch T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X
Jug Roof T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Junk In The Trunk T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Just Another Pretty Face S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Knapping With The Alien S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lacto Mangulation T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Last Tango in Potash T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lip Balm Addict T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Little Tufa's T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lizard Skills S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lucy in the Sky with Potash T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Man After Midnight S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mephistopheles T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Midnight Frightening T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mini Me T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mini Skirt S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mississippi High Step S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mother Trucker T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Neopolitan S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nervous in Suburbia S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Fly Zone T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Pedigree Poodles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pinhead T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Points West T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Potash Bong Hit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Potash Sanction T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Potstash S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pounding the Frog S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Practical Religion S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Puppy Love T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ralph the Rat S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rhino Might S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Right Side In T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ring Pin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Room With A View T A2+
Room With A View (free) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Sand and Steel T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
School Room Slabs TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Seam As It Ever Was T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Seibernetics T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shadowfax S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
She-la the Peeler S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shoot Up or Shut Up T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skeletonic T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Slab Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smoke Filled Rooms T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Snakes Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Something Nasty T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Static Cling T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Steel Your Face S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stego Slab S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Summit Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Take A Chance On Me S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Tap Root T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tastes Like Chicken S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tempting the Guillotine T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Tired of Talus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Top 40 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twittin Shinkies T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Two Sides of Purple, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uncertain T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Under the Boardwalk S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unemployment Line T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unknown Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Visible Panty Line T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wake of the Flood T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Walk on the Wide Side 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Warsteiner S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Welcome to Anexia T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Willow Whip T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yogini S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zig Zag S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 8,451 total, 71/month
Shared By: Greg D on Feb 9, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Poop Alert! Details
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Start 15 left of Static Cling. Do a few moves to get into the splitter hand crack formed by the main wall and a giant flake that leans into the corner to the right that forms Static Cling. Climb the splitter then follow the crack up the most obvious line which trends right and widens about 30 feet up until you reach the Static Cling anchors. A bit harder for small hands or people with little jamming experience.

This climb is described in some guide books as a top rope. It protects well the entire climb but the fact that you are climbing a giant detached flake becomes more obvious the higher you climb. The flake must weight many tons and is reasonbly solid but I suggest placing cams on the upper section in such a way that the outward force of a cam would exert a force on the flake pushing left/right of you as you face the rock (toward Static Cling) versus into/away from the rock (toward the road). It may be possible to push the flake outward but definitely not to the right toward Static Cling. This may not be possible in the wide section but is possible on the upper part of the route.

Thump the flake up high with the heal of your hand and discover where the name of the climb came from. Sorry, the name doesn't refer to taking a bong hit.

Location

This route is right of Skeletonic and just left of Static Cling and shares the same anchors as Static Cling.

Protection

Camolots: single set from .5 to 4. Extra 1's and 2's for the hand crack.
Carla R
San Jose, CA
Carla R   San Jose, CA
Fun climb! Nice sustained hand crack, and fun offwidth near the top. I have small hands and felt this is a solid 5.9, maybe with one 5.9+ move for me. Dec 30, 2016
Michael Dom
  5.9
Michael Dom  
  5.9
Blast out across the top. Don't even think about your gear, cause you aren't going to fall out unless you let go. Dec 22, 2015
Victor Carvalho
Atibaia, Sao Paulo, Brazil
  5.10a PG13
Victor Carvalho   Atibaia, Sao Paulo, Brazil
  5.10a PG13
I've climbed yesterday and the line is pretty nice. The first half is the best part of it. The second half appears to be a little dangerous once the crack is too thin. So do not fall in the upper part. Sep 6, 2014
Tyson Waldron
Reno, NV
 
Tyson Waldron   Reno, NV
 
This is a classic line.

The only draw back (which is really a plus for wusses like me) is that it sets you up perfectly for a TR preview of the 4 star .11 line right next to it, dashing any hopes of an OS attempt.

But don't fret, red points are cool too. Nov 22, 2013
BenCooper
  5.9
BenCooper  
  5.9
Greg D -
Agreed. Small hands would certainly up the difficulty level, but in terms of desert hand cracks, this is a 9. Also, I found this route significantly easier the cruxes of Flakes and Bad Moki. Aug 13, 2010
Greg D
Here
 
Greg D   Here
 
I have noticed three people have suggested this route is harder than 9. I think this route may be a bit harder for small hands or people with little jamming experience. But all in all I think this route is no harder than Flakes of Wrath, Bad Moki Roof or Eyes of Falina, all 9's. So, I believe the 9 rating is fair for this area. Jan 30, 2009
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
The upper section is deeply frightening to climb, but seems solid enough. The hand crack that makes up the first half of the climb is really good. Mar 23, 2008
Greg D
Here
 
Greg D   Here
 
A new variation exist, put up in 07. After climbing the hand crack, head out left past some bolts to anchors. See description of Good, The Bad and the Potash 11b/c. Mar 15, 2008