Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 14,190 total · 108/month
Shared By: Greg D on Feb 9, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Description

Start 15 left of Static Cling. Do a few moves to get into the splitter hand crack formed by the main wall and a giant flake that leans into the corner to the right that forms Static Cling. Climb the splitter then follow the crack up the most obvious line which trends right and widens about 30 feet up until you reach the Static Cling anchors. A bit harder for small hands or people with little jamming experience.

This climb is described in some guide books as a top rope. It protects well the entire climb but the fact that you are climbing a giant detached flake becomes more obvious the higher you climb. The flake must weight many tons and is reasonbly solid but I suggest placing cams on the upper section in such a way that the outward force of a cam would exert a force on the flake pushing left/right of you as you face the rock (toward Static Cling) versus into/away from the rock (toward the road). It may be possible to push the flake outward but definitely not to the right toward Static Cling. This may not be possible in the wide section but is possible on the upper part of the route.

Thump the flake up high with the heal of your hand and discover where the name of the climb came from. Sorry, the name doesn't refer to taking a bong hit.

Location

This route is right of Skeletonic and just left of Static Cling and shares the same anchors as Static Cling.

Protection

Camolots: single set from .5 to 4. Extra 1's and 2's for the hand crack.
Greg D
Here
  5.9
Greg D   Here
  5.9
A new variation exist, put up in 07. After climbing the hand crack, head out left past some bolts to anchors. See description of Good, The Bad and the Potash 11b/c. Mar 15, 2008
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
The upper section is deeply frightening to climb, but seems solid enough. The hand crack that makes up the first half of the climb is really good. Mar 23, 2008
Greg D
Here
  5.9
Greg D   Here
  5.9
I have noticed three people have suggested this route is harder than 9. I think this route may be a bit harder for small hands or people with little jamming experience. But all in all I think this route is no harder than Flakes of Wrath, Bad Moki Roof or Eyes of Falina, all 9's. So, I believe the 9 rating is fair for this area. Jan 30, 2009
BenCooper
  5.9
BenCooper  
  5.9
Greg D -
Agreed. Small hands would certainly up the difficulty level, but in terms of desert hand cracks, this is a 9. Also, I found this route significantly easier the cruxes of Flakes and Bad Moki. Aug 13, 2010
Tyson Waldron
Reno, NV
 
Tyson Waldron   Reno, NV
 
This is a classic line.

The only draw back (which is really a plus for wusses like me) is that it sets you up perfectly for a TR preview of the 4 star .11 line right next to it, dashing any hopes of an OS attempt.

But don't fret, red points are cool too. Nov 22, 2013
Victor Carvalho
Atibaia, Sao Paulo, Brazil
  5.10a PG13
Victor Carvalho   Atibaia, Sao Paulo, Brazil
  5.10a PG13
I've climbed yesterday and the line is pretty nice. The first half is the best part of it. The second half appears to be a little dangerous once the crack is too thin. So do not fall in the upper part. Sep 6, 2014
Michael Dom
  5.9
Michael Dom  
  5.9
Blast out across the top. Don't even think about your gear, cause you aren't going to fall out unless you let go. Dec 22, 2015
Carla Rosa
San Jose, CA
Carla Rosa   San Jose, CA
Fun climb! Nice sustained hand crack, and fun offwidth near the top. I have small hands and felt this is a solid 5.9, maybe with one 5.9+ move for me. Dec 30, 2016