Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 27,685 total · 183/month
Shared By: Greg D on Feb 9, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Description

Start 15 left of Static Cling. Do a few moves to get into the splitter hand crack formed by the main wall and a giant flake that leans into the corner to the right that forms Static Cling. Climb the splitter then follow the crack up the most obvious line which trends right and widens about 30 feet up until you reach the Static Cling anchors. A bit harder for small hands or people with little jamming experience.

This climb is described in some guide books as a top rope. It protects well the entire climb but the fact that you are climbing a giant detached flake becomes more obvious the higher you climb. The flake must weight many tons and is reasonbly solid but I suggest placing cams on the upper section in such a way that the outward force of a cam would exert a force on the flake pushing left/right of you as you face the rock (toward Static Cling) versus into/away from the rock (toward the road). It may be possible to push the flake outward but definitely not to the right toward Static Cling. This may not be possible in the wide section but is possible on the upper part of the route.

Thump the flake up high with the heal of your hand and discover where the name of the climb came from. Sorry, the name doesn't refer to taking a bong hit.

Location

This route is right of Skeletonic and just left of Static Cling and shares the same anchors as Static Cling.

Protection

Camolots: single set from .5 to 4. Extra 1's and 2's for the hand crack.

Photos