Type: Trad, Sport, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,093 total · 29/month
Shared By: Alpine Carl on Apr 12, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


103 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Description

The crux is at the top two bolts, bit spooky and run-out to the chains. An excellent route all the same, even more so in the afternoon, when it is in the shade.

However, this route is much more exciting if you don't have a guidebook and start up it because it "looks cool"....

I think this is the best "sport" route on Potash Road.

Location

In RIGHT facing corner to left of Static Cling, starts directly under tree. Rappel.

Protection

Four bolts, but you'll need gear to 1 Camalot, emphasis small stuff. Fixed anchors at top with rings; 50 meter rope fine.

Photos

Greg D
Here
 
Greg D   Here
 
Great description Carl. Clear and concise. I found myself on this route last year by mistake. I was told it was 10a ish. Half way up I knew it wasn't. Then, the same guy that told me it was 10ish appologized. He was looking at a different route in the guide. At this time I had never even toproped an 11, let alone lead one. To my surprise I made it through the crux clean. I blew it near the top on the sandy unprotectible yet easier terrain and took a 15 footer on my last piece (.5 camalot) that I placed a few feet above the last bolt. Some may find this placement unnecessary but I didn't mind having it. Someone caught a snap shot of my fall. See photo. Apr 14, 2007
Dane Casterson
Boulder
 
Dane Casterson   Boulder
 
Did this route a year ago for the first time and was knocked unconscious from the whip I took after the last bolt. Did it again over the weekend and it is definitely a great route. Comforting to the ego to finally see that its more than 5.10! In my opinion its the best bolted route on Potash. Also, I did it without gear and it thought it was protected well enough with just the bolts other than at the very top where you cant get gear anyway. Apr 16, 2007
Greg D
Here
 
Greg D   Here
 
Dane, isn't it ironic to say this route is well protected with just the bolts yet you were knocked unconsious from a fall on this very same route. You must have really hit your head hard. And, I really don't believe there is gear above the last bolt except for two feet about the last bolt. That's all. Jan 20, 2008
Sam Feuerborn
Carbondale
  5.11d PG13
Sam Feuerborn   Carbondale
  5.11d PG13
Awesome climb for sure. its funny that the description should say something about hopping on it because it looks cool because that's exactly what i did and loved it. way harder than i anticipated and than i usually lead but still suuuuppppeeeerrr fun. wanna go back and lead it clean. would definitely recommend this route! Nov 29, 2009
Dane Casterson
Boulder
 
Dane Casterson   Boulder
 
Greg, I was desperate at the top and stepped over the rope causing me to flip when i fell. I did this route in my second year climbing when i was stronger than i was smart. Went back again recently and i think the PG13 rating is warranted. Mar 17, 2011
Dave Alie
Golden, CO
  5.11d
Dave Alie   Golden, CO
  5.11d
I was another who got on this route after being assured it was 10a. Spoiler alert: it's not. I had plenty of time to piece this revelation together on my long way down from a fall near the top. While the bolts are good and protect the meat of the hard climbing, I definitely would not recommend treating this like a sport route. There are a couple committing, non-trivial moves before the cracks disappear, and the three central bolts arrive, that you definitely would not want to fall from if you had no gear below you. A small handful of cams to BD#1 should do you fine for supplemental gear, with a yellow and/or blue TCU (or similar) working nicely for the optional (recommended) top placement above the last bolt. Yes, it's only a couple feet above the bolt, and it's not the easiest piece to place, but the cams are good and it sure beats taking massive wingers on fixed hardware in soft sandstone! I wouldn't say it's PG-13 as fall is relatively clean and the top can be spooky but the moves to the chains are substantially easier than the crux sequence. My favorite route at Potash thus far! Mar 20, 2014
Michael Dom
  5.11d PG13
Michael Dom  
  5.11d PG13
One of THE best routes on wall street. You only need about 3 cams. Don't blow it going over the top or you will be going for a long ride. I thought the top was the most treacherous. Dec 22, 2015
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
Great route. Prepare for insecure slopey sidepulls and smearing feet with gear at your feet and a nice run out to the chains. Maybe 2-3 scary moves then jugs to the ledge. Nice stem rest just prior. Nov 3, 2017
Tyler Stableford
Carbondale, CO
Tyler Stableford   Carbondale, CO
Holds near the top are soft and getting loose. Makes the runout somewhat dangerous, potential 40 footer back into the dihedral when they break. Could have another bolt there, given the route is well bolted for the rest of the entire length. It’s a great, bolted route; doesn’t need to be dangerous. Nov 21, 2018
Dan Earhart
  5.11c/d PG13
Dan Earhart  
  5.11c/d PG13
Really fun, sporty climb. Climbing through the bolts is a blast and very well protected. Forces you to get creative. The end however forces you to transcend your earthly bounds and enter a spirit realm of trusting sandy feet and insecure moves high above your gear. Not bad holds though. Keep it cool and it's curtains. Definitely give this a go if you're looking for a wholesome climbing experience. Don't forget a few pieces of gear too. Small stuff for the most part. Nov 27, 2018