Type: Trad, TR
FA: Jorma Hayes, 1 April 1995
Page Views: 5,666 total · 28/month
Shared By: Darin Powell on Apr 29, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


226 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Description

Lacto Mangulation is the first route left of Top Forty and the last route before School Room #2. It starts on a small face for about 20 feet (5.6) to a ledge and then follows a right facing dihedral that starts as a fist crack and ends up as a small finger crack. The last 8 feet is the crux. Rap from slung anchors. Can be top roped from School Room #2.

Protection

There are two drilled angles and one bolt leading to sling anchors, a couple of larger cams(#4) could be used to protect a longer fall between the second and third bolts but not necessary.

Photos

Jonathan Amburgey
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Jonathan Amburgey   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Some beta: The route has 3 bolts that lead to a two-bolt anchor (one with a rappel ring; the other linked chain). The crux is the last 8 feet or so above the last bolt to the anchors. Though I didn't use any pro, a piece in the upper section between the last bolt and anchors might be warranted if you're feeling less-than-confident using tiny finger jams. Solid feet and creative hand-work are needed.

Good route; I really enjoyed it. Nov 23, 2008
CanDillo
The Great State -Colorado
 
CanDillo   The Great State -Colorado
 
Fun route. Good easy climbing leads to the crux which is strenous due to lack of soild feet on small tips fingers. Good warm up for some of the other routes on Wall Street. Oct 28, 2009
Tate
Durango CO
  5.10a
Tate   Durango CO
  5.10a
Bring a #3 c4 or even a #4 friend to protect from ledge fall before the last bolt. Mar 17, 2015
Michael Dom
  5.10b
Michael Dom  
  5.10b
A 4 is all you need. Dec 22, 2015
Austin Martin
Chattanooga, TN
Austin Martin   Chattanooga, TN
^ Of course you can do without the gear entirely (as on any climb), but most people will want at the very least 4 quickdraws and a large cam (BD#4-6) for between bolts 3 and 4 to make this a "safe" lead. One could easily bring more gear to protect the climb further. Bolted anchor. A rather exciting climb! Oct 29, 2016
Bailey Filla
Palisade, CO
Bailey Filla   Palisade, CO
Really, this is considered a 5.10 a/b? Feb 11, 2018