Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Jim Beyer, Pat McInerney, February 1990
Page Views: 8,545 total · 60/month
Shared By: Matthew Seymour on Apr 1, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


215 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Description

Climb the thin crack system and pull up under the roof utilizing some side pulls (crux). Pull the roof (2nd crux) and continue to anchors on the right wall.

The moves are aesthetic, and you can find some great rests, a great route.
Although it certainly won't compare to longer classic routes, it is definitely one of the best on wall street.

Location

This route is located about 50 feet right of Top Forty in a highly chalked left facing dihedral with a thin crack system, and a roof about 2/3 of the way up.

There is a chalked up flake to the left that leads to the same anchors, Potash Bong Hit, a top rope climb.

Protection

A set of camalots to a number 3, small pieces (tcu's) are helpful, and a set of nuts. Draws to extend pieces below the roof.
Greg D
Here
  5.11a
Greg D   Here
  5.11a
This is a quality climb and can be climbed in the rain (see photo) as well as Potash Bong Hit(5.9) which starts just 15 feet left and shares the same achors as Static Cling. Potash Bong Hit is worth doing and protects fairly well even though some guide books call it a top rope. See Potash Bong Hit on this website for more details. Feb 10, 2008
BenCooper  
 
For me, the key gear were a #0 and #00 TCU (purple + grey). These can protect the crux moves below and through the small roof. May 28, 2009
Clayton Rardon
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.11
Clayton Rardon   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.11
excellent varied climb. easy to protect. Highly Recommended for the 5.11a leader. place a directional below the roof if you're going to TR. HAVE FUN! Mar 31, 2010
Kevin Gillest
Arvada, CO
  5.11-
Kevin Gillest   Arvada, CO
  5.11-
Great route, not to be missed on Wall Street. Good gear, great movement. Oct 6, 2011
zach cook
Boise, ID
zach cook   Boise, ID
A must do if your strutting the strip. fun jams with great feet and and sweet traverse into a an awesome roof crux! Apr 10, 2015
Emily C Sukiennik
Sedona, AZ
 
Emily C Sukiennik   Sedona, AZ
 
Love this climb. Still haven't done it clean, the move right under the roof is a bit tough if you're not super tall. May 27, 2015
Michael Dom
  5.11a/b
Michael Dom  
  5.11a/b
Make it fun and dyno once you hit the corner! Dec 22, 2015
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
Small purple tcu not needed as bomber horizontal prior to the roof and good finger crack after offer better gear. Easy for the grade as compared to baby blue due to ridiculous number of rests Nov 3, 2017