Type: Sport
FA: Kyle Copeland
Page Views: 10,900 total · 53/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Mar 31, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


135 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Description

A classic slab marked by thin cruxes and tip-toe foot work. This climb will require balance and a little confidence. Fairly well protected, this tenuous route has only one definite crux, but plenty of "heads-up climbing" everywhere else. A wandering line with good movement and mass appeal. A great lead and a really nice climb!

While the grade has been debated, 5.10a/b (E1 5b for our visitors) seems to be the benchmark. Your size, reach, and skill will become a prime factor when coming to your own consensus; expect fluctuations.

Protection

Six to eight draws lead to a two-bolt anchor.

Location

Located further down the road towards the petroglyphs, Steel Your Face can be found immediately off the road and 30 feet left of a School Room style slab area. It is directly left of a vegeteted section of the wall which is home to Puppy Love.
Your mileage may vary! Sandy friction -- I thought SYF was no giveaway at 5.10a. Try Puppy Love, the nice 5.9 next door, as an easier warmup if you're new to this rock. Apr 9, 2002
"good beginner/intermediate lead", bullshit! Just did this two days ago and thought it was solid 10a. It's dusty, and the holds are all rounded. I could believe this was easier before the masses climbed it when the edges were more squared, but I found it to be insecure and slippery for a good portion of the route. The crux was all that and sequential. Good route however, can top rope many routes from the top. Sep 30, 2004
martin kocsis
  5.10b
martin kocsis  
  5.10b
Crikey! suggestions of 5.9 or whatever need to be taken with a pinch of salt. in 2 weeks of moab climbing, this was the hardest single move i pulled off (with such style too!)...harder than the kor-ingalls offwidth (can you compare two such routes?) and a walk in the park compared to nervous in suburbia. perhaps the "good for beginners" comment is due to the extremely friendly bolting. the crux move is english 6a.cheerio! Apr 8, 2005
Matt McMurray
Castle Rock, CO
  5.10a/b
Matt McMurray   Castle Rock, CO
  5.10a/b
I found this route to be a solid 5.10 when I recently climbed it. I agree that several of the holds must have rounded etc. It was quite sandy, and the crux seemed reachy to me. The first bolt is a bit high, but relatively easy climbing to get to it. Funny thing about slab climbing... it always seems/looks easier from the bottom. =) Nov 27, 2006
Abandoned User
5.10a/b
Abandoned User  
5.10a/b
I think this was harder than 5.10a on lead. You have to compare to other routes in the area. I personally think it was at least a letter grade harder than Nervous in S. Very balancy, much longer and broken hold on the crux. Jun 3, 2007
Daniel Crescenzo
  5.10a
Daniel Crescenzo  
  5.10a
10a for sure. Thin moves. Oct 8, 2007
One of my favorites in the area for sure, although it feels just a bit harder every year. So many fun, tenuous, just barely there moves.
Be sure to TR the arete to the left, it is amazing, definitely worth taking a lap up. Oct 15, 2007
Andy VanHouten
Park City, UT
Andy VanHouten   Park City, UT
Interesting climb, super sandy at the bottom, but gets better as you get higher. Wouldn't rate this any harder than 10a, but it's no gimme. At least there are no pockets to get filled with sand....give it a whirl if you're in the area.... May 11, 2009
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.10b
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.10b
Excellent slab climb. Thin crux by bolt #5 and clipping bolt #7 is a long reach and balancy. UK grade E1 5c, like a much longer version of the Brush Off at Helsby but a lot safer. Oct 16, 2010
Jon Marek
Spearfish, SD
 
Jon Marek   Spearfish, SD
 
If you can do the first moves, you can climb this route...but there may be a moment of doubt near bolt five. Gotta have faith in those feet. Would be classic if it didn't feel so sandy. Nov 27, 2012
Tyson Waldron
Reno, NV
 
Tyson Waldron   Reno, NV
 
If you like controlled, static, technical slab climbing, do not skip this one!! Nov 22, 2013
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c R
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c R
The moves just below the first both could really hurt you if you are not solid at the 5.10 sandy slab grade...
And I think persistent traffic on this climb has made it harder. Oct 14, 2014
Rick Vermeil
Erie, CO
  5.10b/c PG13
Rick Vermeil   Erie, CO
  5.10b/c PG13
Great sustained slab climbing! The hardware spacing and condition do not inspire confidence. Apr 7, 2015
Nope, definitely not a 10a. Maybe years and years ago, but I'd honestly say this is now in the high 10 or low 11 range. It wasn't too dirty or sandy, just very thin and rounded. Protection was decent, although some hangers are quite old. Nov 13, 2015
DaveB
 
DaveB  
 
Be sure you're sandy-slab-ready when deciding to lead this one. Coolness and patience will be a virtue. +1 on height and reach challenges for some. Jul 30, 2016
Rachel Fifer
Denver, CO
 
Rachel Fifer   Denver, CO
 
The 4th bolt is loose. Aug 9, 2017
Mark Says
Aspen, CO
  5.10a/b
Mark Says   Aspen, CO
  5.10a/b
Lots of slab practice over the week made this one possible for me. There's at least one bolt where I couldn't find a comfortable clip of any kind and had to just slap it on there before I face planted and slid slowly back downhill. I'd do this again, and I'm not a fan of slab. Oct 10, 2017
Marshal Foster
  5.10c PG13
Marshal Foster  
  5.10c PG13
5.9-5.10a climbing until the 5th bolt or so. There are no features nearby and it turns into some very tricky slab with no hands and terrible feet. Jun 2, 2018
Adam Fleming
Moab
5.10d
Adam Fleming   Moab
5.10d
Bad hardware throughout. Not super confidence inspiring over sandy feet. They hold but there's definitely a little pucker factor on this one. Dec 13, 2018