Type: Trad, Sport, 50 ft
FA: Josh Gross and Lynn Sanson
Page Views: 2,800 total · 30/month
Shared By: Lynn S on May 7, 2011
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


84 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Description

Mixed route, pretty sandy now, a mix of potash choss and good stone. Start below the shallow corner, green camalot in a slot about 8 feet up, then clip three bolts that lead to a short wide slot with a chockstone. Move past this and up right to a 2 bolt anchor with chain.

The tufa's are on the left side of the corner. Actually they look more like those alien worms from the beginning of the X Files movie.

Location

In the shallow corner between Lacto Mangulation and Banana Peel. The start is directly behind the tree.

Protection

Green camalot, #4 camalot, #3 camalot and a tips piece. 3 bolts complete the pro. Anchor is 2 bolts with chain.

Photos

cdec
SLC, UT
cdec   SLC, UT
Climbed this in the spring of 2009 when we did Brown Banana. Thought it was worth a bit of cleaning and some bolts, wasn't sure though.
Have heard good things. Thanks for putting in the time and money. Jul 23, 2011
Keith H.
Cleveland, OH
5.10b PG13
Keith H.   Cleveland, OH
5.10b PG13
This is a nice little route. The first bolt like most in Moab is high. It would have been nice to have placed a piece of pro in the first little section instead of making a committing move to the first bolt because a ground fall would be rough. Apr 1, 2012
I didn't like this route at all. It was very sandy which made a route a little harder than it needed to be. You can protect the bottom with a #1 camalot. May 20, 2012
Justin Skaare
CO
  5.10b/c
Justin Skaare   CO
  5.10b/c
Rack: #1 to protect before the 1st bolt, #3 above the 3rd bolt, and a cordless dirt devil for all the sand. Harder than lacto IMO. Apr 11, 2014
Dustin Eells
  5.9+
Dustin Eells  
  5.9+
Sandy for sure with a high first bolt but still worth putting up Jul 16, 2014
Grammatical point, (Noun[edit]. tufa (countable and uncountable, plural tufas) but they named it so they can do whatever. And good for them and us! It is a title that has significance to those that put up the line...we must not judge. Feb 28, 2015
Mathias
Loveland, CO
 
Mathias   Loveland, CO
 
I looked at the route by headlamp one night on the way back to the camp site and decided it was interesting enough to try (though it was really above my grade). I didn't see this as a sport route, I thought it was a trad route with a couple bolts to protect it where there was no gear. I put two cams in below the first bolt, a big cam in the crack past the second bolt, and a nut at the top of the finger crack.

I gave it 3 stars because unlike a lot of the routes I saw around it, it has a lot of diversity for a very short route. It is a little sandy in spots but I didn't have any trouble brushing it off as I went. May 24, 2015
Michael Dom
  5.10
Michael Dom  
  5.10
Like everyone else has said I will reiterate, it is sandy, unique, short, and if you don't bring cams, runout. Dec 22, 2015
Enjoyed this short climb. Got a #1 in below the 1st bolt and a #4 in the wider crack above the third bolt. Really fun finger crack above the wide crack. One big move above the #4 then you can run it out to the anchors. May 10, 2016
Rodion  
I have been seeing a lot of folks this season hop on this with only draws, apparently assuming that because it has bolts it is a sport route, and I have seen a lot of upside-down falls out the wide section as a result. This is NOT a runout route-- it is a reasonably protected mixed route. Please make good choices out there and bring some pro! Apr 27, 2017
Roman M
Park City, UT
Roman M   Park City, UT
Fun climb. Could not figure out a clean way to go between 1st and second bolt. Used a .75 before first bolt and #4 after second bolt up the big crack before the pull to the anchors. Route was a bit dirty. Feb 21, 2018