Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,082 total · 28/month
Shared By: Darrin Stein on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


146 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Description

Haven't led this (so sad). 20' left of the tree on the black wall is a noticable V-slotted finger crack below a block. Fingers to good jams then move around the block. Rating is 10a and I think it's that all the way (look...a poet and I didn't even know it).

Protection

Set of cams and a .5 TCU near the top.
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
The Route seems more awkward than difficult. I found myself a little more knotted up than in your general desert corner. Dec 20, 2001
I thought the start was cake. If you put your back against the wall and jam the finger crack with your right hand and bridge your feet across the flaring chimney, you can get a good rest at every stance. Then the actual crux seems to be near the top. It might be easier for me because I have big feet, but since it flares it shouldn't be a problem unless you have tiny feet. Feb 25, 2002
Setting the outside (left) knee onto the front wall and pressing the left foot in back is a good way for smaller folks to avoid foot bridging (which doesn't work if you got small feet!) Sweet route with interesting moves!

Jackie May 13, 2003
Shane Zentner
Colorado
  5.10a
Shane Zentner   Colorado
  5.10a
Flared chimney with perfect finger/small hand jams to the roof. I found the first twenty five feet hard and sustained. I jammed, stemmed, smeared, and grunted to the roof where the climbing became easier. Pull the roof and use both sides of the crack to get to the anchors. I placed two yellow metolious cams in the finger crack. Mar 15, 2004
Holly Barnard
  5.10a
Holly Barnard  
  5.10a
Detailed gear beta. Red alien and .5 camalot (purple) in the V-slot. Green alien under the roof. #3 camalot on the right side of the block. Yellow and blue TCU's in the finger crack on the left on the block.

Sustained route, but fun pretty especially the 2nd time around. Pulling up onto the block is by far the easiest part and also has a good rest just before it. I was tempted to give it 3 stars, but given all the other great cracks around Moab I couldn't. Definately worth doing though. Mar 29, 2004
martin kocsis
  5.9+
martin kocsis  
  5.9+
marvellous! the sort of route three parties walked past saying "maybe next time...". a word to the wise: you must do this route...when you've done so you'll know why!cheerio! Apr 8, 2005
Marty Brenner
Durango, CO
Marty Brenner   Durango, CO
I thought it was hard and awkward, especially with the (for me) off-fingers crack in back. Then I realized I was actually secure and not falling out of the thing. Its good to challenge yourself with something a little less straightforward sometimes. Plus, no lines for this one. Enjoy! Oct 13, 2006
BirminghamBen
Birmingham, AL
 
BirminghamBen   Birmingham, AL
 
Good, solid stone... Oct 19, 2008
The crux is definitely at the top of the double cracks. Bear hugging a move or two once you reach the finger crack until you reach the jugs seems to be the way to do it. Great route, fun moves. Apr 12, 2009
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.10a
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.10a
Easier than some 5.8s! Treating the v-groove as an offwidth, ignoring the finger crack except to place gear, makes it almost trivial (gritstone Severe) but it's best to keep moving on the top section. Oct 27, 2009
Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
 
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
 
This route destroyed me. I'm a bigger dude (175lbs 6ft tall) and so I had to do the craziest moves in the flaring offwidth section. Watch out for those small surprise holds that help you get through the offwidth though (they are there). The two cracks up top are a cinch, until the very top were they taper out. Probably the second crux in the climb (besides the insane offwidth section). Not a bad climb, almost threw-up cause it exerted me so much :) Oct 23, 2012
Fat Dad
Los Angeles, CA
Fat Dad   Los Angeles, CA
The crux is definitely at the top. If you're struggling hard on the bottom portion, you're doing it wrong. I found the small cams that protect the crux a little worrisome but it's all there if you commit. Jan 11, 2013
Megan Henderson
Ogden, Utah
 
Megan Henderson   Ogden, Utah
 
I enjoyed this route even though everyone in our group really struggled on it. I think I had the easiest time in our group (not that it was even remotely easy) because I'm smaller and could fit my lower body into the flared chimney part and actually chimney up it. I barely used the crack in the back except to help balance myself. Can't wait to try it again sometime! Jul 10, 2013
Justin Skaare   CO
 
Rack: 2x .4, 1x .5, 1, 2, 3 BD C4s

The route was total off-width hell for me. I ended up just jamming my shoulder blades into the flaring crack and smearing up ... not the finger crack fun I was hoping for, but still interesting. I actually enjoyed the rock humping upper cracks. Apr 22, 2014
Josh Cameron
California
  5.10a
Josh Cameron   California
  5.10a
After Flakes of Wrath my next favorite route at Wall Street; a unique climb with fun moves. I feel the bottom half is technically easy (yup, think foot bridging) but rather physical. The upper half is much less physical but seems to become more tenuous the higher you climb. Feb 27, 2015