Type: Trad
FA: Kyle Copeland '89
Page Views: 8,224 total · 40/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Mar 9, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


149 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Description

This route is located approximately 100' left of '30 Seconds Over Potash' on Wall Street. The route climbs a finger crack in a narrow, left facing dihedral. Eight feet below the chains the dihedral vanishes, leaving a splitter finger crack.

This is a great route for the aspiring 5.11 crack climber. There are numerous face holds and good stemming rests. Excellent.

Protection

A couple #1, #2 Metolius, .3, .4, .5 Camalots.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Fun route. Beta: Don't try to clip the anchors from the layback and god foothold. There is a flake at the top of the crack, level with the bolts that turns out to be a jug. Go for it. Take a lot of .75' inch cams (yellow HB's or grey/blue microcamalots) 2 1" cams, and 1 each 1.5" and 2". You can sew it up with that rack.

Too short to be a classic, but certainly good.

Not a technical 5.11a, but certainly a pumpy one. I have small fingers and did well on locks just to the top. My female climbing parners locked the top too. Fat fingers would make this at the grade, but it will be easier for smaller people. May 5, 2003
Sergio P
Idaho Springs, CO
 
Sergio P   Idaho Springs, CO
 
when you are really pumped near the top and the crack thins out you might be tempted to reach left and just grab the chains. Don't cheat yourself! The pro is easy and often so just climb the last three feet. Feb 23, 2005
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
I just updated the anchors...
As this route gets more traffic, it gets further and further from "5.11a". I'd say "a" as in "cat". May 28, 2007
Mike
Phoenix
Mike   Phoenix
I found this route hard for the grade and actually had to hang at the final thin crack. It certainly favors those with smaller fingers. I could barely get my tips in there! Also unlike those posting above, I whimped out and grabbed the chains. Maybe I'm just weak. Jul 9, 2009
half-pad-mini-jug
crauschville
half-pad-mini-jug   crauschville
Ya Mono, geeeze... Mar 7, 2010
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
5.11a
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
5.11a
lol! Mar 7, 2010
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
Linus is the new sheriff de' asshole of Wallstreet. I'm quaking in my boots from his historical perfection..... Thanks for logging on yesterday, for the first time ever, just to freak over a couple of squeezjobs.

Mono, just get out of the game and give Linus your job. Mar 8, 2010
steven sadler
SLC, UT
steven sadler   SLC, UT
this is only the second 11a I've red pointed so whether the grade is sandbagged or not i couldn't tell ya. but this is an amazing climb. a number 1 camalot fits nice in the big flare right before the crux and it caught my 20+ foot fall(which was pretty scary because the route is only 30 or so feet tall). the crux can be lie backed but i just finger jammed that top part as well. could only fit the little fingers in but way more fun than liebacking. it's an amazing route. Jul 27, 2011
Simon H
Oakland, CA
 
Simon H   Oakland, CA
 
Hanging on a tips lock to clip the anchor without grabbing the chain is the crux on this one, a very different route to lead than to TR due to the last couple feet. Nov 21, 2012
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
. Such a fun route. Definitely have gear to a single 1 BD, and from .4 to yellow and red C3s. Way too much fun! Oct 2, 2013
On Saturday, April 29th, someone took a ground fall from close to the chains. Two pieces (a BD .5 and an orange Metolius) were left on the bottom half of the route. We would really like to get those pieces back to the climbers involved. If you retrieved them, please message me and I can help get those back to their respective owner.

Also, if anyone has information about how this accident might have been caused (such as damage to the rock above and / or in the flare/pod - where two piece blew), please let me know.

And thank you to all who helped yesterday. Apr 30, 2017
Rebecca Yaguda
Victor, ID
Rebecca Yaguda   Victor, ID
Awesome, fun route. As a lady with #1 camalot sized hands, I had PERFECT finger locks pretty much the whole route. Gear suggestion: A #2 camalot fits perfectly in a pod down low (kinda nice to have a bigger piece close to the ground), a #1 camalot fits well in the pod up high before the crux. For the rest of the route, I would've been happy with 0.4 camalots and/or yellow TCUs. (0.3 camalots and 0.5 camalots could work in a couple places, but this crack eats up the 0.4 camalot size).
Have fun! Oct 15, 2018
Aaron Price
Los Angeles, CA
Aaron Price   Los Angeles, CA
Bring like 5-8 yellow #2 metolius cams, a couple of blue #1s and 2 1" and 2" C4s, super fun climb but a bit too much for me. Nov 27, 2018