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Routes in Wall Street

"Big Corner" T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
30 Seconds Over Potash T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
A Fistful of Potash T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Another Roadside Distraction T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arc Angel S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Armageddon S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Astro Dad T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Astro Lad T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Baby Blue T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bad Moki Roof T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Banana Peel S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Best Route Ever T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Beyer Offwidth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big Sky Mud Flaps S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blowing Chunks T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Bolts to Bumpy Land S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Broken Engagements 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3
Brown Banana S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brownie T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X
Campground Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chaco-late Chunk S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Chemistry T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
ChrisCross TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Coup D'etat T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dark Horse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Desp-Arete S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Diplomatic Immunity T A3
Dr Strange Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dunn Copeland T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
East Of Wrath T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eat the Rich T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
El Cracko Diablo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
El Face-o Diablo S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Enigma Campground Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Eyes of Falina T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Faith Flake T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Fernando S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fist Full of Potash Direct TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Flakes of Bongo TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a X
Flakes of Wrath T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flakes of Wrath Direct T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Frogs of a Feather T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good, The Bad, and the Potash, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Grama and the Green Suede Shoes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Half Pipe T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hidden Message S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
High Over Datura S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Holey Moley S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Horizontal Mambo T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
I Love Loosey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jacob's Ladder S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Jingus Launch T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X
Jug Roof T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Junk In The Trunk T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Just Another Pretty Face S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Knapping With The Alien S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lacto Mangulation T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Last Tango in Potash T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lip Balm Addict T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Little Tufa's T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lizard Skills S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lucy in the Sky with Potash T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Man After Midnight S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mephistopheles T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Midnight Frightening T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mini Me T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mini Skirt S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mississippi High Step S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mother Trucker T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Neopolitan S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nervous in Suburbia S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Fly Zone T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Pedigree Poodles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pinhead T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Points West T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Potash Bong Hit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Potash Sanction T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Potstash S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pounding the Frog S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Practical Religion S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Puppy Love T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ralph the Rat S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rhino Might S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Right Side In T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ring Pin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Room With A View T A2+
Room With A View (free) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Sand and Steel T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
School Room Slabs TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Seam As It Ever Was T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Seamed like a good idea T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Seibernetics T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shadowfax S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
She-la the Peeler S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shoot Up or Shut Up T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skeletonic T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Slab Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smoke Filled Rooms T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Snakes Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Something Nasty T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Static Cling T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Steel Your Face S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stego Slab S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Summit Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Take A Chance On Me S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Tap Root T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tastes Like Chicken S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tempting the Guillotine T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Tired of Talus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Top 40 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twittin Shinkies T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Two Sides of Purple, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uncertain T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Under the Boardwalk S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unemployment Line T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unknown Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Visible Panty Line T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wake of the Flood T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Walk on the Wide Side 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Warsteiner S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Welcome to Anexia T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Willow Whip T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yogini S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zig Zag S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad
FA: Kyle Copeland '89
Page Views: 7,577 total, 39/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Mar 9, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Poop Alert! Details
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route is located approximately 100' left of '30 Seconds Over Potash' on Wall Street. The route climbs a finger crack in a narrow, left facing dihedral. Eight feet below the chains the dihedral vanishes, leaving a splitter finger crack.

This is a great route for the aspiring 5.11 crack climber. There are numerous face holds and good stemming rests. Excellent.

Protection

A couple #1, #2 Metolius, .3, .4, .5 Camalots.
On Saturday, April 29th, someone took a ground fall from close to the chains. Two pieces (a BD .5 and an orange Metolius) were left on the bottom half of the route. We would really like to get those pieces back to the climbers involved. If you retrieved them, please message me and I can help get those back to their respective owner.

Also, if anyone has information about how this accident might have been caused (such as damage to the rock above and / or in the flare/pod - where two piece blew), please let me know.

And thank you to all who helped yesterday. Apr 30, 2017
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
. Such a fun route. Definitely have gear to a single 1 BD, and from .4 to yellow and red C3s. Way too much fun! Oct 2, 2013
Simon H
Oakland, CA
 
Simon H   Oakland, CA
 
Hanging on a tips lock to clip the anchor without grabbing the chain is the crux on this one, a very different route to lead than to TR due to the last couple feet. Nov 21, 2012
steven sadler
SLC, UT
steven sadler   SLC, UT
this is only the second 11a I've red pointed so whether the grade is sandbagged or not i couldn't tell ya. but this is an amazing climb. a number 1 camalot fits nice in the big flare right before the crux and it caught my 20+ foot fall(which was pretty scary because the route is only 30 or so feet tall). the crux can be lie backed but i just finger jammed that top part as well. could only fit the little fingers in but way more fun than liebacking. it's an amazing route. Jul 27, 2011
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
Linus is the new sheriff de' asshole of Wallstreet. I'm quaking in my boots from his historical perfection..... Thanks for logging on yesterday, for the first time ever, just to freak over a couple of squeezjobs.

Mono, just get out of the game and give Linus your job. Mar 8, 2010
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
lol! Mar 7, 2010
half-pad-mini-jug
crauschville
half-pad-mini-jug   crauschville
Ya Mono, geeeze... Mar 7, 2010
Mike
Phoenix
Mike   Phoenix
I found this route hard for the grade and actually had to hang at the final thin crack. It certainly favors those with smaller fingers. I could barely get my tips in there! Also unlike those posting above, I whimped out and grabbed the chains. Maybe I'm just weak. Jul 9, 2009
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
I just updated the anchors...
As this route gets more traffic, it gets further and further from "5.11a". I'd say "a" as in "cat". May 28, 2007
Sergio P
Idaho Springs, CO
 
Sergio P   Idaho Springs, CO
 
when you are really pumped near the top and the crack thins out you might be tempted to reach left and just grab the chains. Don't cheat yourself! The pro is easy and often so just climb the last three feet. Feb 23, 2005
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Fun route. Beta: Don't try to clip the anchors from the layback and god foothold. There is a flake at the top of the crack, level with the bolts that turns out to be a jug. Go for it. Take a lot of .75' inch cams (yellow HB's or grey/blue microcamalots) 2 1" cams, and 1 each 1.5" and 2". You can sew it up with that rack.

Too short to be a classic, but certainly good.

Not a technical 5.11a, but certainly a pumpy one. I have small fingers and did well on locks just to the top. My female climbing parners locked the top too. Fat fingers would make this at the grade, but it will be easier for smaller people. May 5, 2003