Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: FA: Chris Baird, FFA ?
Page Views: 553 total · 9/month
Shared By: Allen Chaney on Oct 15, 2013
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Description

Interesting movement utilizing edges, laybacks, hand jams, and rattly fingerlocks. Bring a red c4 and a yellow tcu - the placements will be obvious (and necessary).

This route is listed as "unknown" 5.12b in the Moab area guide. Definitely worth doing! Will clean up with some traffic, there was 0 chalk and a fair amount of sand when I got on it.

Location

Left of Pinhead and right of Potash is a mini-corner in jet black rock. Mostly bolted with bolted anchors.

Protection

4 Bolts, #1 C4, yellow TCU, bolted anchors.

Photos

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I did the FA. We called it "Tempting the Guillotine" because of the big loose guillotine shaped feature you have to pull and stand on. I wasn't the first to free it. Don't know who got the FFA. Feb 20, 2016