Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: 2010 Tony & Connor Calderone
Page Views: 2,307 total · 49/month
Shared By: Mountain Dreamer on Feb 27, 2015
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Description

The crux is above the last bolt.

Location

Straight up the middle of the face between "Tastes Like Chicken" and "Lip Balm Addict".

Protection

3 bolts, 1 piton and a 2-bolt station with chains.

Photos

- No Photos -
Nate Kes
Salt Lake City
Nate Kes   Salt Lake City
I did the route on 1/29/2017. There were maybe 2 or three bolts missing(there were holes mid way between some). A good ~15 ft from the last bolt to the chains. It very much so looked like grips from the last bolt to the chains had been destroyed. It almost looked like someone had taken a grinder to them.

As a beginner at sport climbing, I would not recommend this to other beginners. This was significantly harder than it's Neighbor 5.7 Neapolitan. Jan 30, 2017
Adam Fleming
Moab
5.5 PG13
Adam Fleming   Moab
5.5 PG13
There's a completely loose block (small backpack sized) sitting on the slab just above the anchor. Breathing on it wrong could send it down. The block in the crack just below the anchor is also completely detached, but looks like it'll hold on for a while.
edit: trundled the completely loose block this evening. Nov 10, 2018 · Temporary Report
Adam Fleming
Moab
5.5 PG13
Adam Fleming   Moab
5.5 PG13
The climbing is really easy but the runouts could spook a new leader. First drilled pin a bit too high and the second a bit too low in my opinion. This is a good option if Holey Moley and Practical Religion are occupied. Nov 10, 2018