Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Kyle Copeland, solo, Nov 1988
Page Views: 28,345 total · 134/month
Shared By: Tradkelly on Aug 31, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Description

This is one of the classic must-do moderate routes. It almost always has someone on it or in line (sorta like Supercrack at IC). And it's definitely worth the wait. Expect a sustained climb with three definite parts, and good rests in between each - it's harder than it looks, and the cruxes are pumpy.

Reach the climb about 350 feet (less than .1 mile) past a large break in the otherwise solid wall of Wall Street. If you pass a long (several hundred feet) section of lower angled slabs, you've gone too far.

Lieback and jam a left-facing corner (with a couple of face features for variety) at the right end of a 3-car turnout for 80' to good anchors on the facing wall. Rap the route.

Protection

Standard rack to #3 camalot, small to medium TCUs and chocks, and a pink tri-cam is useful off the ground.
Wes Allen
Lexington, KY
Wes Allen   Lexington, KY
Very fun route, you can stem the thin section pretty easy without have to layback. Mar 26, 2002
This is one of the best introductions to Wingate climbing in southern UT. Awesome, and it was my first trad lead ever. Aug 25, 2002
Aki
Aki  
Fall of 2003. I found this to be a great first desert lead. In fact it was the first crack I ever climbed in the desert and the first real ( I think ) hand/finger jams i've done. Next time I'll use tape. I'm starting to understand the OW! Anyways, there's excellent protection all the way up and plenty of places to rest and fiddle with gear. Would recommend this to all first time leaders. Mar 31, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9-
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9-
The crux is at the bottom and protects well on a few med/large stoppers or TCU's. Take a #3 camalot, contary to the rack advice to a #2. You can do it with nothing bigger than 1.5" but why? You can sew it up if you take a little more.

Good fun, but not a classic. 1.5 stars in my opinion.

A little harder than most 5.8's. May 5, 2003
vince pierce
  5.8+
vince pierce  
  5.8+
Since there is little else on wall street in this range and because the route is so much fun... this climb is often crowded. Lots of good rests and plenty of pro make for a great moderate route. Dec 13, 2004
Randy Carmichael
Boulder, CO
  5.9-
Randy Carmichael   Boulder, CO
  5.9-
Two #3 Camalots are recommended to really sew it up. Of course, I only had one! May 5, 2005
J W
Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
J W   Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
good climb, two obvious cruxes....i managed to put the #3 in low- ran it out so far, i might as well have soloed the damn thing.... Apr 19, 2008
John Maguire
Boulder, CO
  5.8
John Maguire   Boulder, CO
  5.8
Awesome climb! It helps to have either a standard rack to #3 Camelot or doubles of #2 Camelot... Mar 27, 2009
Woodson
Park City, Ut.
  5.8
Woodson   Park City, Ut.
  5.8
Awesome! The crux is definitely low, and is semi reachy. The rest sews up well, and agreed that it"s good to be doubled up on bigger camalots, as I placed #s 1 through 3 up higher. May 16, 2009
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.9+
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.9+
I hate lay-(lie-)backing and found this desperate for a 5.8. My mate also fell off the start several times, so I think it's a case of hard moves close to the ground being under-rated. UK hard 5b. Or maybe I'm just getting too old. Oct 27, 2009
rick gardiner
Grand Junction, CO,
rick gardiner   Grand Junction, CO,
Rope soloed this climb on 4/2/10 and found it to be harder than Flakes of Wrath. Even on TR after I led it seemed hard for an .8. Better have your crack skills down for this one! Gear to #3 Camalot Apr 5, 2010
Rob C.
Freeport, ME
  5.8+
Rob C.   Freeport, ME
  5.8+
This is a great climb! The bottom crux is the most difficult. Takes good pro, it's got pretty secure stances to place from, and a #3 cam would be nice here! Oct 31, 2010
Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
  5.8
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
  5.8
Great climb! I felt like it was made for me (175lb 6ft dude). Perfect hands almost the whole way up. There was always a good stance for placing gear as well. If you can handjam and foot jam properly, then this route is a lot of fun and not too bad. The hardest move is the start b/c it is now pretty slick (from so many attempts), that's the only part I really had to lie-back. You can figure out the other parts without lying back if you're tall enough. Wish I could have done it twice! Oct 23, 2012
Tyjacobo
Salt lake city, UT
 
Tyjacobo   Salt lake city, UT
 
I found this to be harder than a 5.8. Seems more like an 5.9 or 5.10+. Maybe I'm just weak. Used Camelots .75 to #3, and a large stopper for the 1st placement, almost lost it. Apparently a lot of nuts get stuck in this obvious taper. Dec 8, 2012
Great climb but harder than 5.8. More like 5.9+. Takes good gear and never run out. Kicked out a stopper on the lie back and was glad I had placed a back up cam. Dec 27, 2012
Mike Rowley
Boise, Idaho
 
Mike Rowley   Boise, Idaho
 
Does anyone know what the bolted line to the right of 30 seconds is?? It felt really hard. Apr 8, 2013
jakobi
moab, utah
 
jakobi   moab, utah
 
It's called Rynomight or something close to that. Apr 9, 2013
Dave Bail
5.8
Dave Bail  
5.8
So easy! But of course I am so good. 5.7 or easier. Feb 9, 2014
Lost an anchor set up on this route March 8th. Let someone clean it for me because of the long line of people waiting to get on. Went a little further up the road and lost track of them. Let me know if you see this and it was you that cleaned it for me! I would love to have that set up back! Mar 11, 2014
Jon W
Bishop, CA
Jon W   Bishop, CA
Definitely bring a #3 if you want to protect the middle part. Nov 10, 2014
Josh Cameron
California
  5.8
Josh Cameron   California
  5.8
Fun route and a good lieback. Takes good gear the whole way. However, I disagree that this is one of the better routes at Wall Street. It's good but not thaaat good. Feb 27, 2015
Emily C Sukiennik
Sedona, AZ
 
Emily C Sukiennik   Sedona, AZ
 
This was my first crack climb many years ago, and then my first lead. A perfect learning route! Love it :) May 27, 2015
Joy Montgomery
Steamboat Springs, CO
 
Joy Montgomery   Steamboat Springs, CO
 
amazing route. has a little bit of everything Jun 4, 2015
I've never been so soar after doing only a 5.8! I saw a girl get very spooked on this one before I led it, you could just see the fear in her eyes as she looked back to her friends for advice, glad I was able to muster up the strength to push through all the tough spots without hesitating. Must be one of those desert 5.8's Dec 10, 2015
Sam Elander
Bullhead City, AZ
Sam Elander   Bullhead City, AZ
Dropped a freaking #9 (?) nut in the crack. :(
There's probably no chance, but if anyone happens to see it, give me a call please. 501-827-2946. Thanks! Mar 10, 2016
Tricky start and committing laybacks. Bring extra #2s and 2 #3s. May 9, 2017
Gaarth Donald
Chelan, WA
 
Gaarth Donald   Chelan, WA
 
Rappel rings have serious grooves as of this date. Oct 28, 2018