Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 17,721 total · 86/month
Shared By: Jared Brin on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


314 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Description

This route is two routes right of Flakes of Wrath. It goes up the thin, slabby right facing corner, out the roof, and up a sandy slab/crack. It felt harder than 5.9, since I got really pumped placing gear in the roof, but none of the moves are that hard, it's just sustained. Don't lower and try not to toprope since there are really deep rope grooves in the roof. One groove just above the lip is deep enough to place pro in.

Protection

Small cams and maybe a few stoppers for beginning and end, #.75 to #2 camalots for roof section, fixed anchor at top.
Charles Dalgleish
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.8-
Charles Dalgleish   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.8-
Love the climb. Makes for an interesting show for the road crowd while you go inverted, or worm your way through the lip of the roof.

Great climb that leaves you crying for more. Gets the blood flowing nicely for flakes of wrath next to it.

The route ain't harder than an eight. Unless you're a gym climber. It's easier than owl rock and sybernetics, both solid eights. Just remember, this is the dessert. The route has also changed a bit in the past 12 years too, since about 6 years ago someone pulled the flake on the left of the roof (where you could rest)but there's still a huge jug at the crux move, bring you're feet up right.

Please don't lower, the rock already has taken serious punishment. Save your rope and the rock and rappel. Oct 27, 2002
I also agree with the lowering comment. It is easiest to keep your belayer at the anchors for a party of two. Nov 27, 2002
KPRTX
 
KPRTX  
 
Great route! Good place to start getting the arms workin'. You don't even have to lead it! DO belay from the top to respect the rock. Very nice short 5.9 section.

Dont let your rope suck up in the crack or rub excessively in the groves over the roof, be nice and rap the route. Dec 11, 2002
Dynomight510
  5.9
Dynomight510  
  5.9
The first few placements are adequate and the quality of gear placements increases leading up to the roof. This is quite the desert sandbag and woudl rate it 5.9 dues to it's sustained nature. Rap the route and I don't reccomend top roping due to the rock wear from the rope.

Fun and wild

Sandbag at 5.8 Sep 29, 2003
Shane Zentner
Colorado
  5.9+
Shane Zentner   Colorado
  5.9+
Burly, very burly. Solid 5.9 Feb 11, 2004
Hard and weird 5.9. Aug 12, 2004
utfreeclimber
Sandy, UT
  5.9 PG13
utfreeclimber   Sandy, UT
  5.9 PG13
I don't know about this one. It's definitely 5.9, maybe 5.8+, once you find the jugs to yard on but even after you pull the roof it's still kinda squirmy and slopey to the finish. One piece of advice... don't try climbing this thing using fist jams and offwidth technique or else this stupid little roof'll feel like a hard 5.11 crack, look for the jugs. Mar 21, 2006
mark chytka
laramie wy
  5.8+
mark chytka   laramie wy
  5.8+
this route is awesome and if you climb it right it will feel like a solid 5.8 this climb has some awesome hidden features that make pulling the lip easy and fun. the lip is a little sandy and to the anchors is very sandy as well.
Please don't toprope this route it tears up the rock. the grooves in the roof are horrific. Apr 20, 2006
Mark Michaels
Draper, UT
  5.9+
Mark Michaels   Draper, UT
  5.9+
Crux is short but stout, in my opinion. Don't know about any secret holds that make this 5.8?? Fun climb, with a touch of sandy groveling to spice it up. Sep 28, 2006
Greg D
Here
 
Greg D   Here
 
Tony, I appreciate your effort replacing the anchor, but I'm confused at your choice of location. Your new bolt does not equalize with any of the other anchors when rapping. Please explain.

Edit: does not apply anymore with the new anchors. Apr 15, 2007
Dane Casterson
Boulder
 
Dane Casterson   Boulder
 
Tough at 5.9 but i dont have much experience in the desert. Found one jug under the lip of the roof but it got a little desperate for me after that. Am i missing something or is this route a good representation of what desert 5.9 crack moves feel like? Apr 16, 2007
Jonathan Schumacher   Sandy, UT
Enjoyable climb. Made the mistake of lowering (belayer wasn't up for the climb).... Nightmare... Jun 20, 2007
T-Bob
  5.9+
T-Bob  
  5.9+
This and Flakes of Wrath are by and far the best routes I've found on Potash. Talk about a blast of a route with great gear. It's not often a slug like myself get's to pull 6ft. roofs on trad gear(or any kind of gear for that matter!). I found a wicked solid kneebar just under the roof which conveniently blocked me from getting any good jams in the roof section. Had to hang on piece and reset. It went right away after I discombobulated myself.
Tony Apr 4, 2008
Monkey Den Climber
moab, utah
Monkey Den Climber   moab, utah
saw new anchors today..... yay, no more having 2 rap!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! they r right above the roof now Oct 25, 2009
grk10vq    
smart!

it would be great if it were possible to re-position the anchors for Flakes on Wrath as well so the roof doesn't eventually get sawed in half. Oct 26, 2009
Is this route really 5.9? I tried 3times.It has nice but bad roof, I felt so fun.My hands are relatively small,but the crack is thin-hand(#1.5friend) for me.
the protection are orange and red TCUs,#2friend,#1.5friend,#3friend.Nuts(wired) are no necessary. Mar 30, 2010
Does anyone know what the route that shoots off to the right of the roof is? Its new this year so I don't think its in any of the guides May 27, 2011
Luke Malatesta
Moab Utah
 
Luke Malatesta   Moab Utah
 
The route would be "Horizontal Mambo" . It goes @ .12d May 28, 2011
Michael Ybarra
on the road
Michael Ybarra   on the road
Anyone who thinks this is easier than Owl must be smoking crack. I didn't even think of using a rope on Owl, but Moki was no gimme. I did it twice and didn't find any jugs. Worth doing for sure. Mar 28, 2012
This route is definently not 5.9. This is a solid 5.10. Nice finger crack in the beginning, but the rough was gnarly for me. For me it was cupped hands most of the way. I'd say this is harder than the Incredible Hand Crack. May 20, 2012
Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
 
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
 
I fist jammed and foot jammed the overhang part. Very fun this way and extremely burly. After I climbed though, a friend climbed and had found a secret jug. Looked like it made the climb significantly easier! Oct 23, 2012
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Can you say perfect hand crack roof? A must do! Definitely solid 5.9 after the slab. Lowering kinda sucks but eh, still a rad line. Bring finger sizes for the start and thin hands (.75 and 1s) for the roof. Maybe a 2 if I remember right. Rock on! Oct 2, 2013
Josh Cameron
California
  5.9
Josh Cameron   California
  5.9
Not crack, Michael, but cocaine. Just trying to keep it classy. Feb 19, 2015
Daniel Evans
Phoenix, AZ
  5.10
Daniel Evans   Phoenix, AZ
  5.10
5.9 is an enormous sandbag. It is solid 5.10 compared to other routes at the grade in Indian Creek. Maybe the "jug" broke off because it does not exist anymore. I found the topout to be pretty desperate and awkward with deep hand jams. Great route nonetheless. Dec 16, 2017