Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,151 total · 31/month
Shared By: Lucas J Matthews on Oct 17, 2010
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


118 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Description

5.9+ hand jams lead up to thinning double cracks. When the crack runs out, keep climbing the face with no bolts.

Location

This crack shares anchors with Flakes of Wrath but starts to the left of it.

Protection

Cams. No bolts. Anchors at top.

Photos

Rob C.
Freeport, ME
  5.11 R
Rob C.   Freeport, ME
  5.11 R
I top roped this; very strenuous and awesome jams! Oct 31, 2010
steven sadler
SLC, UT
steven sadler   SLC, UT
TR'd this route a couple of times. The 5.9+ big hands crack is pretty stiff. It's a funny angle so it's pretty strenuous. When i did it this last time someone had placed a bolt on the face but it's been removed. That section is run out but it would be a safe fall and that little runout section makes the climb way more fun and interesting. No need for a bolt there. Thanks to whoever removed it. Jul 27, 2011
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
I thought about leading this onsight but decided to just do the normal start and TR it. Glad we did it that way. The fall would be safe, assuming that your gear holds... then again it's all behind a rather thin (1") flake so I'd stack up quite a bit at the end of the crack if you go for it. Oct 13, 2011
ben jammin
Moab, UT
  5.11c PG13
ben jammin   Moab, UT
  5.11c PG13
Lead this one! A #4 Camelot protects well just under the green aliens stacked in the flake that probably won't hold a fall (especially the one your gonna take if you blow the boulder problem!) Mar 11, 2012
I agree that this route should not include a bolt after the flake. However, when somebody takes a large enough whip on that flake, it may go, and the route will be forever changed. Maybe a bolt would save the route? Food for thought. I loved it without the bolt. Dec 2, 2012
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
  5.11c/d R
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
  5.11c/d R
Nest of small cams before the boulder problem should keep you off the ground. Pretty Awesome. Mar 4, 2013
Josh Cameron
California
  5.11b R
Josh Cameron   California
  5.11b R
Stellar crack to some fun boulder moves at the top. Climbed on TR. Feb 12, 2015