Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Unknown, 1995
Page Views: 10,471 total · 89/month
Shared By: jmeizis on Apr 11, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


69 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Description

Climb the obvious wide crack to the left of Lacto Mangulation. It's lower angle but wide which can make it akward. There are two anchor options if bringing up a second, either traverse to the chain anchors (climbers right) or run it out another fifty feet to a boulder that can be slung (couldn't find anything else).

Location

Part of the school room area, left of Lacto Mangulation. Find the low angle wide crack. Across the street from a "Parking" sign. Walk off to the climbers left avoiding kicking down rocks on the unsuspecting passerby. It's

Protection

Doubles of #3-5, no need for anything small.

Photos

transattic
Los Angeles, CA
  5.9- PG13
transattic   Los Angeles, CA
  5.9- PG13
Off-width crack with fun-filled mantels, crimps, fist jams, armbars, and stems.

This was a challenging and risky climb without Camalot #4-5's, BUT it is absolutely possible.

So you have an idea of how it was possible, I was able to protect the route using #1-3 Camalots, #10-12 stoppers, draws, and double-length runners. The runners came in handy when I had to set pros deep within the narrow cracks within the obvious humongo crack. I gotta remind you that if you had #4-5's you wouldn't need to set your pro that deep in.

The first pro was set about 15 ft up. A minor crux before reaching second pro placement. Then a fearful crux with 20 ft of unprotected off-width. Calmly securing myself and moving on, the rest was easy. When I had a clear sight of the double bolt anchor (used for Unknown Slab or Slab #1) and was near the top, I was able to drop a the last cam. As I made my way to diagonally towards the anchor across the face, I could squeeze in a small stopper right around the lip.

Assuming you only got small pro, you could add med-lg TCUs to make your life easier.

Given this was an improvised climb, it was real fun and scary at the same time. Highly recommend larger cams. Definitely worth revisiting! May 23, 2013
Daniel H. Bryant
Colorado Springs, CO
Daniel H. Bryant   Colorado Springs, CO
I only used a #3 and #5, the cruxy part is short. Do it in the afternoon shade, for obvious Potash reasons. Jul 7, 2016