Type: Trad, Sport, 45 ft
FA: Josh Gross and Lynn Sanson
Page Views: 1,312 total · 21/month
Shared By: Lynn S on Oct 25, 2013
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Description

Trad start to bolted finish, varied climbing on good stone. Layback up a right trending flake, clip a bolt and pull through a bulge using a big arrowhead shaped incut.

Pass two more bolts, stepping up on a pedestal and clip the anchor. An extension heads left past a few more bolts. This bumps the grade to 11+/12-.

Location

20 feet left of Lizard Skills and just right of Bolts to Bumpy Land

Protection

.5 Camalot will protect you to the first bolt. Bolts from there to the first anchor, 10b.

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BScallout
  5.10b
BScallout  
  5.10b
Good job on unearthing these pitches. Both are closer to 40 ft. however. And I pray the anchor between the 2 was a mistake because one more route in between would be the ultimate squeeze job. Oct 25, 2013
Drew Spaulding
Boulder, CO
Drew Spaulding   Boulder, CO
....^^^there seems to be a continuing trend here^^^..... Nov 7, 2013
Eric Odenthal
Moab, UT
 
Eric Odenthal   Moab, UT
 
Direct finish is .11+ish Aug 9, 2015
cdec
SLC, UT
cdec   SLC, UT
This seems to be "smell of dead euro-peons".
The anchor between this and Lizard Skills was for Pounding the Frog an original Kyle Copeland route. Apr 20, 2016
Good first little section. The extension is where the real fun is. The crux has a spinning bolt nearby. Moderate climbing up to a tough crux that must be 5.11+. Mar 12, 2017