Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Jake Tradiak, Ray Huntsinger 1989
Page Views: 7,319 total · 51/month
Shared By: Matthew Seymour on Apr 1, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Description

Climb up the center of the slab past five fixed anchors to a bolted belay. It looks thin but the low angle makes it possible.

Location

Located about 60 feet left of Baby Blue just left of a deep sandy recess. It starts behind some bushes up a large fin like protrusion. The route climbs up the slab in the middle of the fin.

Protection

5 quickdraws
This was my first lead climb. My buddies didn't know that and it was a little nerve racking, but it is a fun climb and I think not a bad intro to smearing on sandstone. Jul 8, 2008
Jase
Travelling
 
Jase   Travelling
 
Great at night. Apr 10, 2010
Cody Drool
BEAVERTON, OR
 
Cody Drool   BEAVERTON, OR
 
Called Snake Slab in the new Moab guide [2011]. Super fun climb but strong for an 8. Pretty positive holds going to first bolt, leading to a slabby finish. Apparently I made it harder by working the side of the arrete, missing a face move that unlocked it [somewhere by the 2nd bolt]. Highish first bolt and classic sand stone moves make this a great Moab route. May 21, 2011
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
There is a good large to medium nut placement on the below and left of the first bolt. Put a long sling on it to minimize rope drag above. Oct 22, 2012
Pretty fun, I had a little sketchy start, but it was alright. It's a great practice for footwork. Sep 25, 2013
ben jammin
Moab, UT
 
ben jammin   Moab, UT
 
I thought this was called 'Snake Slab'. Not too bad, actually. Oct 3, 2013
engineer1984 Whicker
Ogden, UT
  5.8 R
engineer1984 Whicker   Ogden, UT
  5.8 R
Really fun / aesthetic slab route to do while you're waiting on other climbs to open up in the area. Not sure why I never see anyone on it.

I gave it an 'R' rating for the high first bolt and the back breaking boulder that you'd be falling towards if you goofed. Not sure about the nut placement as commented above, I've led this twice and any pro would be far left. However, if you're a 5.8 slab leader, look for a placement because a fall would be bad before the first bolt. There are one or two non-trivial moves near the first bolt.

Have fun and cheers!

Andy Oct 21, 2014
Mountain Dreamer
Salt Lake City
Mountain Dreamer   Salt Lake City
Snake's Slab 5.8 PG
1989 Jake Tradiak, Ray Huntsinger Feb 23, 2015
Conor O
Fort Collins, CO
  5.9-
Conor O   Fort Collins, CO
  5.9-
Yea the bolts are definitely a little to spaced out to give it a PG rating. Which also makes the climb feel more exposing and more like a 5.9-. Jan 3, 2016
Eriks Rozners
Binghamton, NY
  5.8
Eriks Rozners   Binghamton, NY
  5.8
The first bolt is very high. To avoid R safety, one can place #1 and/or #2 C4 on left side in a crack. A longer runner will minimize the rope drag and keep you protected for the first bolt clip. The crux is really nice and requires some careful balance and thoughtful moves. Jun 21, 2016
Mark Says
Aspen, CO
  5.8+ R
Mark Says   Aspen, CO
  5.8+ R
It's definitely PG13 after the first bolt and the climbing to the first bolt is juggy, but it is a little sketch nonetheless. The difficulty of this route is directly proportional to how much or little you trust your feet. Oct 10, 2017
Chris Morgan
Ogden, UT
  5.9-
Chris Morgan   Ogden, UT
  5.9-
We love this climb. It's very impressive sitting by itself. Definitely stick clip the first bolt. A great way to start trusting your traction on small featured sandstone. Apr 5, 2018