Type: Trad, 95 ft (29 m)
FA: Josh Gross and Lynn Sanson
Page Views: 2,306 total · 13/month
Shared By: Lynn S on Oct 22, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

You & This Route


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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Poop Alert! DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

A continuation of Pinhead, start on that route but about 8 feet below its anchor, bust right and up to an obvious OW pod guarding access to the right-facing corner above. This is the first of three OW sections you will encounter on your way to the anchor. You will want a #5 Camalot and bump it up this section with you.

Grunt up to the next section of wideness, #4 works here. As the crack disappears you will find a nice new bolt waiting for you to clip. Stem, smear and grovel up to the last short pod below the anchor. Have a #2 Camalot ready, plug it in and make a move or two to the anchor.

When I led this I used everything from a 00 C3 (purple) to the #5 Camalot (purple) hence the route name. It is still fresh, so be mindful of what you grab onto.

Protection Suggest change

Cams from tiny to #5 Camalot, save a #2 for the top. 1 bolt on the route and a three bolt anchor with chain and rapid links. Please do not pirate the links.

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