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Routes in Wall Street

"Big Corner" T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
30 Seconds Over Potash T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
A Fistful of Potash T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Another Roadside Distraction T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arc Angel S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Armageddon S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Astro Dad T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Astro Lad T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Baby Blue T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bad Moki Roof T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Banana Peel S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Best Route Ever T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Beyer Offwidth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big Sky Mud Flaps S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blowing Chunks T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Bolts to Bumpy Land S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Broken Engagements 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3
Brown Banana S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brownie T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X
Campground Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chaco-late Chunk S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Chemistry T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
ChrisCross TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Coup D'etat T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dark Horse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Desp-Arete S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Diplomatic Immunity T A3
Dr Strange Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dunn Copeland T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
East Of Wrath T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eat the Rich T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
El Cracko Diablo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
El Face-o Diablo S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Enigma Campground Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Eyes of Falina T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Faith Flake T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Fernando S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fist Full of Potash Direct TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Flakes of Bongo TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a X
Flakes of Wrath T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flakes of Wrath Direct T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Frogs of a Feather T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good, The Bad, and the Potash, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Grama and the Green Suede Shoes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Half Pipe T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hidden Message S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
High Over Datura S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Holey Moley S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Horizontal Mambo T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
I Love Loosey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jacob's Ladder S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Jingus Launch T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X
Jug Roof T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Junk In The Trunk T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Just Another Pretty Face S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Knapping With The Alien S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lacto Mangulation T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Last Tango in Potash T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lip Balm Addict T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Little Tufa's T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lizard Skills S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lucy in the Sky with Potash T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Man After Midnight S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mephistopheles T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Midnight Frightening T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mini Me T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mini Skirt S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mississippi High Step S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mother Trucker T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Neopolitan S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nervous in Suburbia S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Fly Zone T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Pedigree Poodles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pinhead T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Points West T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Potash Bong Hit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Potash Sanction T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Potstash S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pounding the Frog S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Practical Religion S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Puppy Love T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ralph the Rat S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rhino Might S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Right Side In T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ring Pin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Room With A View T A2+
Room With A View (free) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Sand and Steel T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
School Room Slabs TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Seam As It Ever Was T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Seibernetics T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shadowfax S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
She-la the Peeler S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shoot Up or Shut Up T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skeletonic T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Slab Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smoke Filled Rooms T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Snakes Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Something Nasty T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Static Cling T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Steel Your Face S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stego Slab S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Summit Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Take A Chance On Me S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Tap Root T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tastes Like Chicken S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tempting the Guillotine T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Tired of Talus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Top 40 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twittin Shinkies T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Two Sides of Purple, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uncertain T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Under the Boardwalk S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unemployment Line T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unknown Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Visible Panty Line T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wake of the Flood T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Walk on the Wide Side 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Warsteiner S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Welcome to Anexia T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Willow Whip T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yogini S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zig Zag S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, TR
FA: Alison Sheets, 1988
Page Views: 27,889 total, 146/month
Shared By: George Bell on Feb 26, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Poop Alert! Details
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Fun trad route up an obvious left leaning, left facing corner. After leading you can TR the difficult direct variation to the left. One of the best routes here, maybe 4 stars?

Protection

Friends to #3.5 with maybe an extra #2 and #2.5, medium to large stoppers.
It felt pretty true to grade, around 9+. What a solid, fun, unique climb! As for protecting the thin section, yeah I guess it can be a little tricky. Two flakes facing each other create that crack, which means its totally wide open underneath (active pro would probably be marginal). I plugged an offset nut in there. It wasn't golden but I had no trouble trusting it with a sizable fall. Either way, bomber pro before and after with no real features to worry about. I think a #3 camalot placement right after would be the ticket. Oct 15, 2017
Alex Temus
Small Town, USA
  5.9
Alex Temus   Small Town, USA
  5.9
+1 to mason's comment. The crux isn't difficult to protect at all, just bring stoppers! Cracks, like this, that flare inward require passive pro. You probably couldn't fit a hex in there, but stoppers are solid!

I'm back home now, just wishing I could go run a dozen laps on it. It's one of the best lines I've ever been on. Such a blast! Oct 15, 2017
Mason Stone
Boise, ID
  5.9
Mason Stone   Boise, ID
  5.9
Great route, wires for mid-section, just finicky. Oct 8, 2017
Stanley McKnight
Paradise Valley, Arizona
Stanley McKnight   Paradise Valley, Arizona
Placed a #4 c4 at the end of the crack before it pinches off, it was the last solid piece until you pass the crux (~15 ft) Sep 30, 2017
mattjohnson
Laurens, SC
  5.9+ PG13
mattjohnson   Laurens, SC
  5.9+ PG13
No obvious gear for a ways beneath the crux. Maybe you could sling the pinch in the flakes? I found a blind #2 back behind the flakes but couldn't vouch for how good the placement was. Anyway, it is a decent place to stop and think, but be aware of the gear difficulty Apr 28, 2016
Michael Dom
  5.9+
Michael Dom  
  5.9+
The jams on this thing are awesome. You are secure the entire time with fantastic gear. All you have to do is last! Dec 22, 2015
Ryan Arnold
  5.9
Ryan Arnold  
  5.9
5.9- climbing with 5.9+ gear placements. The pinched crack with open wideness behind it throughout the middle section results in challenging protection. Mar 30, 2015
Hi Gabby, it's Jon, nice lead and thanks for the solid, I emailed you, but just in case I missed something you can catch me at j_stpeter@live.com Apr 22, 2014
Gabby Olsen
Holladay, UT
Gabby Olsen   Holladay, UT
I lead this the other day and a guy named John was there and let me use a cam and left before I could return it. John if you see this can you email me at gabby_j_olsen@hotmail.com and I can mail your cam back to you! Apr 14, 2014
Marcel Robicheaux
Kanab, UT
Marcel Robicheaux   Kanab, UT
four stars all the way Apr 16, 2013
Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
 
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
 
As intimidating as the overhang traverse thing looks, this is not the hard part. The hard part is definitely the thin section. I top roped this, but was checking out the pro possibilities while climbing. Looks interesting for sure in that thin section. My leader placed a .5 C4 in that section, but man was it tough to get out. Sounds like other people manage to place a nut in that section. Oh, this route is a bit pumpy as well, but it might have just been that it was my third day down there. Oct 23, 2012
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
  5.9-
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
  5.9-
Nuts and tricams, or hexes for the middle section where the two cracks/flakes meet. This gear protects the crux so make it count. Use a long sling on the roof to reduce drag to the anchors! So fun. Mar 16, 2012
Rob C.
Freeport, ME
  5.9
Rob C.   Freeport, ME
  5.9
Great jams! Really fun and somewhat sustained! Oct 31, 2010
Peter Swank
Boulder, CO
  5.10-
Peter Swank   Boulder, CO
  5.10-
Beautiful line, with great protection all the way up. May 8, 2010
rick gardiner
Grand Junction, CO,
rick gardiner   Grand Junction, CO,
I did this route rope solo, using my truck as the anchor and absolutely loved it. Good jams with an interesting reachy(finger crack)/smeary(for feet) crux that protects well with nuts. No need to bring anything bigger than a #3 camalot. I am not a fan of climbing by a major road with big trucks buzzing by and climbers bringing their families(kids and dogs)to the area. Another thing I witnessed was belayers standing in the road and not moving out of the way of traffic. Is this arrogance or ignorance? Nov 14, 2009
Garrett Robinson
Leadville, CO
 
Garrett Robinson   Leadville, CO
 
The protection funkyness where the crack doesn't take cams can be really well protected with a creative tricam placement. This seemed to be more bomber than the nut placements available. Sep 17, 2009
Woodson
Park City, Ut.
  5.9+
Woodson   Park City, Ut.
  5.9+
Sooooo bad A$$$$! This route should not be missed, and should be repeated and repeated. The undercling is so great, and protects well, and runners here are a good call. I didn't runner it and ended with some drag. May 16, 2009
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.9+
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.9+
Rock in this area has been trashed by rope-grooves created through people lowering off and top-roping from fixed anchors. Try looking at the photos to figure out which are the more recent ones! There are some very popular small sandstone outcrops in SE England that have been badly abused in the past by climbers top-roping, but even there it's rare to find rope damage as bad as this. Guide-book needs to state emphatically that, to avoid further damage, climbers should belay at top of pitch, then abseil, sorry rap, to ground. Come on guys, this is common sense - we don't need the environmental police on our backs.
Route itself is no soft touch - in UK terms as hard as HVS 5b at Wilton. May 8, 2009
Devon Barker
Glenwood Springs, CO
Devon Barker   Glenwood Springs, CO
Absolutely awesome route!!! my first trad lead on sandstone and all the placements felt solid. If your up for a good challenge try the direct variation. The crux is definitely interesting! Oct 14, 2008
This was my second trad lead and is still one of my favorite climbs in the area. I think I placed up to a #4 Friend at the start for security reasons. Also watch out for the sand in the crack that always ensues after a good rain. Jul 8, 2008
Rhett Burroughs
Rock Springs, WY
Rhett Burroughs   Rock Springs, WY
such a great climb! Jun 30, 2008
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
best route at the grade on Wall st...great climb. a single set is fine- maybe a second #1 or #2 for the roof.... Apr 19, 2008
Jonathan Schumacher   Sandy, UT
What a killer route! Mother nature should have made 1000ft of this! Jun 20, 2007
Mark Michaels
Draper, UT
  5.9+
Mark Michaels   Draper, UT
  5.9+
LOVE this route! LOVE IT! The direct version 11b is recommended as TR only. The crux is at the top...the cracks down lower are 10ish with a nice rest in the middle. AWESOME. Sep 28, 2006
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
  5.9+
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
  5.9+
Harder than Visible Panty Line. Fun crux. I used all my medium and large nuts, and then doubles from .75-#2 camalot. Good stuff. May 31, 2006
utfreeclimber
Sandy, UT
  5.9 PG13
utfreeclimber   Sandy, UT
  5.9 PG13
This climb is a super fun warm up with a variety of sorta sustained moves spaced out with killer rests. The lieback around the flake at the top is really cool. Mar 21, 2006
rob bauer
Golden, CO
 
rob bauer   Golden, CO
 
Just a comment for AC/Casey B. I've climbed the route a few times over the years and always used a tied-off runner at the pinch to protect the moves up from the pinch-off mentioned. Dec 14, 2004
Nick Strong
The Boat
  5.9+
Nick Strong   The Boat
  5.9+
I've loved this route for years now, but it freaks me out to climb it because I've seen two people deck on it from 30+ feet. Both of them zippered. I'm pretty sure they weren't placing correctly, though, as I've never had any problems. Also, that crap at the bottom of the climb is Poison Sumac. Two months of rashes helped me learn that. Mar 11, 2004
Shane Zentner
Colorado
  5.9
Shane Zentner   Colorado
  5.9
Number one and two camalots. Jam your way up this beautiful crack to an anchor. Save enough energy for that roof crack thing to the right. Feb 9, 2004
Scott Conner
Lyons, CO
Scott Conner   Lyons, CO
Definitely a 3-Star Wall St. climb. A teriffic pitch of jamming and laybacking. Do bring a set of small to medium stoppers for the crux. I cavalierly left mine at the base and had to rig up a marginal cam. A must-do and easier than the Moki Roof, IMO. May 27, 2003
On the direct line, be very cautious about a loose block at the top of the crack section. Aug 25, 2002
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
 
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
 
I have to agree George, there's no way I can climb Wall Street more than 1/2 day on any trip. That said, I've done eight or nine routes there, all but two of which were excellent, this being the best. Apr 16, 2002
George Bell
Boulder, CO
 
George Bell   Boulder, CO
 
I guess I'm not a fan of Wall St, it is too close to a major road for my tastes. When those potash trucks blast by just inches from your belayer it detracts from the wilderness setting! This is the best line I've done there, though. Apr 15, 2002
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
 
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
 
George, I can't believe there is any doubt about 3 stars! Amazing route. Apr 15, 2002
Casey Bernal
Arvada, CO
 
Casey Bernal   Arvada, CO
 
I felt that the crux was in the thin section in the middle of the climb. I used several wires here but didn't have all the sizes I needed. The way the crack pinches down makes small cam and tcu placements impossible. Take stoppers from about #6 to #12. The roof takes a #1 and #2 cam. fun climb Feb 28, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+
The left hand 'direct' variation is 5.11b and is even more fun than the regular route. Note, however, that a few non-direct moves are made in the 'direct' route. It's a great problem with a complex and interesting crux. Feb 28, 2002