Dunn Copeland
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British R
Routes in Wall Street
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"Big Corner" T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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30 Seconds Over Potash T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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90 Paces S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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A Fistful of Potash T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ananab S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Another Roadside Distraction T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Arc Angel S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Armageddon S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Astro Dad T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Astro Lad T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Baby Blue T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bad Moki Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bad Moki Roof T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Bad Moki Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Banana Peel S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Best Route Ever T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Beyer Offwidth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Big Sky Mud Flaps S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Blowing Chunks T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Bolts to Bumpy Land S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Broken Engagements 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3 |
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Brown Banana S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Brownie T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X |
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Campground Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chaco-late Chunk S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Chemistry T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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ChrisCross TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Coup D'etat T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Dark Horse S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Desp-Arete S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Devil in Disguise T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Diplomatic Immunity T A3 |
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Dr Strange Flake T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dunn Copeland T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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East Of Wrath T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Eat the Rich T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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El Cracko Diablo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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El Face-o Diablo S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Enigma Campground Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Eyes of Falina T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Faith Flake T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Fernando S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Fist Full of Potash Direct TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Flakes of Bongo TR X |
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Flakes of Wrath T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Flakes of Wrath Direct T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Frogs of a Feather T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Good, The Bad, and the Potash, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Grama and the Green Suede Shoes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gumby Gulley T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Half Pipe T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Hidden Message S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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High Over Datura S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Holey Moley S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Horizontal Mambo T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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I Love Loosey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Importance of Being Varnished, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Jacob's Ladder S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Jingus Launch T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X |
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Jug Roof T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Junk In The Trunk T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Just Another Pretty Face S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Knapping With The Alien S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Lacto Mangulation T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Last Tango in Potash T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Light of the World S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lip Balm Addict T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Little Tufa's T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lizard Skills S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Lucy in the Sky with Potash T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Main Stream S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Man After Midnight S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mephistopheles T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Midnight Frightening T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mini Me T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Mini Skirt S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Mississippi High Step S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mother Trucker T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Neopolitan S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Nervous in Suburbia S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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No Fly Zone T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Pedigree Poodles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pinhead T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Points West T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Potash Bong Hit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Potash Sanction T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Potstash S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pounding the Frog S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Pounding The Frog Direct T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Pounding The Frog Redirect T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Practical Religion S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Puppy Love T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rain Catcher T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Ralph the Rat S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Reflektor T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Rhino Might S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Right Side In T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Right Way, The S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ring Pin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Room With A View T A2+ |
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Room With A View (free) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Sand and Steel T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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School Room Slabs TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Seam As It Ever Was T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Seamed like a good idea T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Seibernetics T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Shadowfax S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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She-la the Peeler S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Shoot Up or Shut Up T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Shoot Up or Shut Up Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Skeletonic T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Slab Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Smoke Filled Rooms T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Snakes Slab S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Something Nasty T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Static Cling T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Steel Your Face S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Stego Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Stego Slab S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Summit Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Take A Chance On Me S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Tap Root S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tastes Like Chicken S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tempting the Guillotine T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Tired of Talus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Top 40 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Treasure Trove Cove T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Twittin Shinkies T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Two Sides of Purple, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Uncertain S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Under the Boardwalk S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Unemployment Line T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Visible Panty Line T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wake of the Flood T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Walk on the Wide Side 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Warsteiner S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Welcome to Anexia T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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White Way S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Willow Whip T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Yogini S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Zig Zag S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Type: | Trad, 20 ft (6 m) |
FA: | J Dunn, K Copeland, 1989 |
Page Views: | 4,023 total · 16/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on May 3, 2003 |
Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Recently there has been a rash of human poops along Wall Street. There are bathrooms in the campgrounds a half mile from popular crags here. Use them. Otherwise, portable toilet systems are required in Grand County. Be prepared to carry human waste out on the trail.
Description
This route was not unpleasant, it just was not worth much. There weren't even any cool moves on it. I did it because I was there, I was waiting, and I was antsy, and I was at the top of this flake... (having just done Pedigree Poodles and having discovered no fixed anchors, or evidence that there ever were any). Like it's neighbors, this is a better boulder than it is a route. It is also harder than the book would imply, & not very secure to start. A fall from the starting slopers would be very near the ground and not of much consequence unless you stumbled backward into traffic.
Again, just solo this up or down in combination with Manicured Lawns (5.9) or Pedigree Poodles(5.7).
All of these routes lie on the arch-shaped flake which lies against the main wall between Nervous In Suburbia and Lucy In the Sky with Potash. Dunn Copeland ascends the left-hand side of the flake to the top, perhaps for 30 feet, although is is not as tall, the climb is made longer by the 20' of horizontal you gain when traveling the hypotenuse of the triangular feature. The moves are not at all hard but the rock is pretty sandy and sloper. You can climb this as a ramp or a hand traverse. The hand traverse is harder, but more secure; you are closer to the ground that way if that is of concern to you. I had no gear here and only went back up to place some later to protect the swing for my second. It will take a TCU or two, but not much.
For an anchor up at the top of this flake, you can place cams back behind the flake up top, but the cables will get tweaked hard if someone takes a fall on them or hangs. I lead this route on a few pieces of gear in a solid arc up Pedigree Poodles and down over to the top of Dunn Copland and then down the sloping ramp of that route. I reached the ground, and handed the lead line to my second, who back lead it in reverse - pulling the gear out by reversing my direction. This turns the 2 routes into a mellow rising and falling traverse of the system covering ~50-60 feet of climbing.
Again, just solo this up or down in combination with Manicured Lawns (5.9) or Pedigree Poodles(5.7).
All of these routes lie on the arch-shaped flake which lies against the main wall between Nervous In Suburbia and Lucy In the Sky with Potash. Dunn Copeland ascends the left-hand side of the flake to the top, perhaps for 30 feet, although is is not as tall, the climb is made longer by the 20' of horizontal you gain when traveling the hypotenuse of the triangular feature. The moves are not at all hard but the rock is pretty sandy and sloper. You can climb this as a ramp or a hand traverse. The hand traverse is harder, but more secure; you are closer to the ground that way if that is of concern to you. I had no gear here and only went back up to place some later to protect the swing for my second. It will take a TCU or two, but not much.
For an anchor up at the top of this flake, you can place cams back behind the flake up top, but the cables will get tweaked hard if someone takes a fall on them or hangs. I lead this route on a few pieces of gear in a solid arc up Pedigree Poodles and down over to the top of Dunn Copland and then down the sloping ramp of that route. I reached the ground, and handed the lead line to my second, who back lead it in reverse - pulling the gear out by reversing my direction. This turns the 2 routes into a mellow rising and falling traverse of the system covering ~50-60 feet of climbing.
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