Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,181 total · 32/month
Shared By: Dean Cool on Apr 22, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


74 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Description

This route starts to the right of "Shoot up or Shut up". Follow the flake up to the crack. At the top of the crack (look for a bolt) move left and climb up to the chains

Protection

Cams and 1 draw for a bolt at the top

Photos

Tombo
Boulder
  5.10+
Tombo   Boulder
  5.10+
I followed this pitch and thought it was really hard for the grade. Lots of laybacking and strenuous right off the deck. Good rest after first crux then what I felt was the layback crux if you have normal size fingers. Great pitch - continuous........ 5.10+ or harder (at least on that day.) Apr 24, 2008
Greg D
Here
 
Greg D   Here
 
Excellent route. Strenuos right of the deck. You can protect this section but it will be even more strenuous as you would be placing from an awkward sort of lieback. Jan 30, 2009
Mike
Phoenix
  5.10
Mike   Phoenix
  5.10
I agree with Greg. The start is hard but close to the ground. It is much easier to just boulder through that section, then get some good pro in and continue up.

I wish that I had seen this page before I climbed it. I didn't know that you are supposed to traverse left at the top. I went straight up and had the soft rock with all the rope grooves break in my hand and hit me in the head, sending me falling back into a pretty nice whipper. Jul 9, 2009
Wasn't this route originally called Pounding the Frog? Sep 17, 2009
Kevin Gillest
Arvada, CO
 
Kevin Gillest   Arvada, CO
 
Same grade as "Eat The Rich" 10c, seems alot easier in my opinion. One of the better 5.10's at Wall Street though May 4, 2011
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
  5.10b/c
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
  5.10b/c
Bouldery start, protected by a low bolt, to a massive ledge. Then awesome varied crack climbing to an upper sporty crux protected by a bolt. An awesome line and not that hard because of the amazing stances for placing pro, the great rests, and the bomber locks and jams. If you can lead at the grade give it a burn and you'll be pleasantly rewarded, go for the onsight. 4 stars for the area of course. Warmed up on flakes of wraith. Sep 4, 2012
Kris Fiore
Burlington, VT
 
Kris Fiore   Burlington, VT  
 
The only thing stopping this thing from being a 4-star route is the short section of crumbly rock at the top. Excellent moves and great jams. Apr 30, 2016
WARNING!! I believe this route is no longer safe to climb. Just past the bolt, to the left a thin horizontal crack has developed that seems to have made the flake above it loose. The flake above it (the one with all the rope grooves on it) now flexes when you put any pressure on it. It seems that it would be fairly easy to pull off a huge block (5’x5’x10”) that is the top of the flake. Oct 22, 2017
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
Climbed this today. Didn’t notice any instability. It’s a shame the anchors weren’t placed in a better location to prevent that horrible rope wear in the rock. Jan 15, 2018