Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,385 total · 23/month
Shared By: Craig Quincy on Apr 30, 2003
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


149 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Description

A.R.D. is the right facing corner just left of Astro Lad. This route begins with some funky moves and then veers left to avoid a short offwidth crack. A large cam, anything from a #4 friend to a #5 camalot, protects the start. The rock on the first half of the route is definitely a little suspect, but the moves are interesting. At mid-height, cut back right to gain the beautiful finger crack. I'd recommend placing a good piece (#2.5 Fr.?) with a long sling before going right. Load up the thin crack with pro and launch into a fun layback with solid finger locks. A couple small footholds provide relief for placing gear during the layback.

The crux is giving up the layback and hoisting onto the sloping ledge just before the anchor. The last half of the route is excellent!

Protection

2 sets cams, something big for the start, #2 yellow TCU's fit the crux lieback perfectly, so three of those come in handy. A couple long slings are helpful, depending on where your gear ends up.
J. Hickok
Salida, CO
 
J. Hickok   Salida, CO
 
This description calls for a very liberal use of gear. The route can be led with much less than 1 set of cams. Look at the route yourself and make the call, but you could definitely lighten your load... Aug 23, 2003
Matt Pickren
  5.10c
Matt Pickren  
  5.10c
I agree, I did this route with a think 5 cams. Idealy I would like Red and Yellow aliens, .3, .4, .5, .75, 1 and 2 Camalots. I of each is plenty (depending how comfortable you are on .10b fingers). 2 sets of cams would be kinda heavy and annoying while laying the top section back. You can see the route great from the ground and decide what you need. Mar 7, 2005
J W
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10b
J W   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10b
a single set is fine, although a second finger sized piece may make someone happy up higher....great route. Apr 19, 2008
Chris Bartram
Orono, ME
 
Chris Bartram   Orono, ME
 
Excellent route, I didn't find any of the moves to be more difficult than 10a but the lieback was very pumpy Oct 7, 2013