Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Bret Ruckman, Gary Olsen 1988. Pitch 2 & 3 Jim Beyer, Pat McInerney 1991
Page Views: 2,018 total · 17/month
Shared By: Greg D on Mar 27, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Description

This is a quality yet overlooked route on Wall Street. It throws a lot of variety at you from finger tips to wide and keeps you thinking the whole time. It is steep and fairly sustained. The first 30 feet are slightly overhanging and good rest are few. Most people only do the first pitch. If you have climbed Astro Lad, Potash Sanction and Static Cling, this is the next step.

P1. Charge off the ground into the 10 inch to 4 inch crack to a stance(photo at right). Then, climb fingers and tips, a short hand crack and into a sort of shallow chimney. Then, on up to the large ledge with anchors visible from road. Don't park your car or your dog at the base when climbing this one. Some loose rock may be encountered especially towards the top. This route would be a classic if the rock was solid the whole way. The rock is mostly solid, a bit sandy in spots and soft at the top although easier. Quite worthy regardless. One 70 meter rope to rappel or two 60's.

P2. Climb up and left on 5th class to the base of right facing corner with a beautiful thin splitter crack.

P3. Climb the beautiful thin crack (5.12 according to Bjornstad) to older looking anchors. Several tips to finger size pieces may be necessary.

Other P2. From the top of the first pitch climb slightly down and traverse right past some newer bolts and then straight up following bolts to an anchor 5.?.

Other P3. Climb the left facing corner above. 5.?

Note: I have only climbed pitch one. I provided the other pitches in hopes that someone with better beta could fill in. They look really good but hard [to me]. I hope to climb them someday. I certainly will update the description if I do.

Location

The next route right of Static Cling (20 feet). 60 feet left of Eat the Rich.

Protection

Standard desert rack plus one or two large pieces for the start. A 5 camalot works well. Plus a few extra tips to finger size pieces including a purple C3 or black Alien.

One 70 meter rope to rappel or two 60's.

Photos

Eric Leis
Holladay, Utah
Eric Leis   Holladay, Utah
Anchor webbing replaced with bright blue May 8th 2010. Still quite a bit of loose rocks up at the top of P1. Don't do if cars are under the route. Jun 5, 2010
Greg D
Here
  5.11b
Greg D   Here
  5.11b
Bright Blue? Yuk! Sep 17, 2010
aparnas
  5.11b/c
aparnas  
  5.11b/c
Did the first pitch today (will have to return for the second and third - it got dark) This is a super, super cool line! Sustained climbing, with everything from OW to fingers/tips, and good rests following hard sequences. I had three BD .3s and could have used five. Some .4s helped, but they just didn't seem to fit as well as .3s on this climb. Dec 14, 2016
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
First pitch only: Good route for its length, but chossy soft rock on the upper half is a major detractor. Good gear the whole way. Placed my entire double rack from .3 to 3 camalot with a few smaller tcus down to purple and then the obvious 5 camalot 10 feet off the deck. It was pretty sandy and spider webs could be found throughout, making me think I may have been the only ascent in quite awhile. 70m is required. Bolted chain anchors May 4, 2018