Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: C. Burns, R.Cummings, S Porcella, 3/90.
Page Views: 2,004 total · 10/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 3, 2003
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Description

This route was not unpleasant, it just was not worth much. I did it because I was there, I was waiting, and I was antsy. It's a better boulder than it is a route. It is also easier than the book would imply, & reasonably solid and secure. IF it were 90' long, there would be a line for it.

There is not and apparently never was a hidden anchor up top as indicated by the book. Again, just solo this up or down in combination with Manicured Lawns (5.9) or Dunn-Copeland (5.7).

All of these routes lie on the arch-shaped flake which lies against the main wall between Nervous In Suburbia and Lucy In the Sky with Potash. Pedigree Poodles ascends the right hand side of the flake to the top, perhaps for 20+ feet. The moves are not hard and the rock is pretty good. It will take good small cams if you like. You can place cams back behind the flake up top, but the cables will get tweaked hard if someone takes a fall on them or hangs. I lead this route on a few pieces of gear in a solid arc over to the top of Dunn Copland and then down the sloping ramp of that route. I reached the ground, and handed the lead line to my second, who back lead it in reverse- pulling the gear out by reversing my direction. This turns the 2 routes into a mellow rising and falling traverse of the system covering ~50-60 feet of climbing.

To reiterate, this climb was far easier than the given grade of 5.9+, and has no anchor, nor has it apparently ever had one. It is a safe boulder though- it's just too short to be a good route.

Protection

Cams .5-1". Just a few, plus cams to 2-3" for the top.

Photos

This is an interesting description.
I remember just soloing up it (dragging a rope), but it was simply the face in the middle of this sorta big flake sitting against the wall with established routes on both sides. There were no cracks. It was just a solo up that blank-looking face. I pounded in a bong (yeah, a bong!), then Rab followed it. Short but very fun, if my delusional memory serves. Cam Jun 21, 2007
This route went up the center of the flake. It was a face climb I soloed. Whoever wrote this description was clearly working off a fax from Xanax. Oct 2, 2018
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.8
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.8
Cam,
Looks like you are a victim of someone who was "High Over Moab" and thus the route is now published as such there, and here. Oct 2, 2018