Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Kyle Copeland, Charlie Fowler, Marc Hirt
Page Views: 9,159 total · 46/month
Shared By: J. Hickok on Jul 12, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


35 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Description

This is excellent desert face and friction, and is a fairly sustained route (and long for Potash). It weaves its way up to a bulge and then around it to the right. Continue slight left again and then upwards to an anchor some 100 feet up. The length of the climb itself might be more like 110 ft due to weaving.

The crux comes high on the climb; it is friction moves a few feet off the last drilled angle. Have fun, and BTW this route is evolving every year with each ascent.

Use a 70 m, or two ropes, to get down safely.

Protection

A dozen quickdraws should cover it - I think.

Photos

George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
This climb is slippery and frustrating. Smearing on sandstone is a new skill that apparently takes time to master. Even worse is to be here on a day when Jimmy Dunn is here doing many of these climbs one handed. Aug 20, 2002
Wavey
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Wavey   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Great desert slab route. This ain't no granite friction. Crux is up high and leader must climb well above pro. One can always find booty high on this potash classic. Climb after rainstorm for increased difficulty. Feb 16, 2007
Greg D
Here
Greg D   Here
Climbing any sandstone immediately following a rain storm is not a good idea as the rock is very soft at this time and the route may be changed forever. Feb 20, 2008
Michael Ybarra
on the road
Michael Ybarra   on the road
I was loving this route until I took a whipper trying to get to the last clip and broke an ankle. Apr 30, 2008
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
bigskymudflaps.com/

Used to see these guys at the Top Hat in Missoula...way back when.

Wonder if the route is named after the band, or, after the ubiquitous adornment for many a truck in Montana (which is where the band got their name)? May 1, 2008
Jordan Winters
Minturn, CO
  5.10d R
Jordan Winters   Minturn, CO
  5.10d R
I thought this was a great route until I reached the bolt just below the last piton...super heady climbing above and very run-out...about 20 feet to the piton on smears which could lead to a 40 footer if you go south...I climbed up and then down climbed this section about 4 times before bailing on a biner i left...the ground up bolting ethic is insane and i give lots of credit to these animals for getting it done Jun 12, 2009
Jim Slabwalker
Moab, UT
Jim Slabwalker   Moab, UT
wow, what a route! definitely had to tap into the rock warrior for this one. don't these routes get a little harder the older they get? i feel like it's at least an 11... hey jordan, i think i have your 'biner. is it an omega oval? i'll gladly send it to you if you want it. lemme know! Aug 3, 2009
Jonathan Lagoe
Boulder
  5.11
Jonathan Lagoe   Boulder
  5.11
Great route. Crux is committing and a bit runout but hang in there. Nov 5, 2011
Matt Pesce
moab, ut.
  5.11a PG13
Matt Pesce   moab, ut.
  5.11a PG13
70m. is needeed...maybe a small cam to get to the 1st bolt Sep 29, 2012
Zack S.
Prescott, AZ
  5.11-
Zack S.   Prescott, AZ
  5.11-
Personally tested two of the SMC spinners near the top, one of them a few times. Good to go! Nov 10, 2012
Tre
Fort Collins, CO
Tre   Fort Collins, CO
In regards to these routes ever evolving- the undercling jug before the bulge popped on me last weekend. Didn't seem to make the route any harder to me as there is still a good bit of it left. Sorry!

Great climb, heady and pretty sustained. Mar 16, 2015
Michael Dom
  5.10d
Michael Dom  
  5.10d
Awesome route, this will test your footwork. And it is really long. Dec 22, 2015
Andrea Helmig
  5.11a
Andrea Helmig  
  5.11a
First bolt is about 16 feet of the ground - a stick clip really helps here or a bouldering pad. Last two bolts before the anchors seemed to be pretty old, spaced far apart on the crux section. Bailed on the third to last bolt prior to the anchors. Someone in the comments referred to an undercling jug before the bulge - FYI as of 4/21/17, there is no jug there. Apr 25, 2017
colin tuck
Moab
colin tuck   Moab
Whipped trying to clip the last pin. That was a long fall. Relatively clean for a slab fall, although reading just above, I guess I am lucky I didn't break an ankle. Couldn't make myself finish the route... Super fun climbing either way. May 23, 2017
Daniel Ozero
Calgary, AB
  5.10d
Daniel Ozero   Calgary, AB
  5.10d
You have to really trust your left foot in a sandy dish to get through the crux. Super sketch but rewarding. Feb 28, 2018