Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Josh Gross, Lynn Sanson
Page Views: 930 total · 19/month
Shared By: Josh Gross on Dec 12, 2014
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Description

"Best Route Ever" is what the late great Dave Pegg would express after any new route he had completed once returning home! Fun mixed route! Early on in the pitch there are a couple of bolts that were placed. Falling onto trad gear there would explode the flake making the route unclimbable.
The route was put up ground up, in my personal opinion going ground up on mixed routes tends to make for a better flow to the route! Half way up the pitch after a short hands section we busted right do to rock quality in the bulge. Higher up on the pitch a super fun slanting tips crack is encountered. We did not clean out right of this system FYI. This pitch is 30 meters on the nose , don't use a short 60meter rope!

Location

"B R E " begins on the top of "Points West". From the top of "Points West " head up and right towards a left facing corner.

Protection

00 BD C3
.3 BD x 2
.4 BD x 3
.5 BD x 1
.75 BD x 1
2 BD x 1
10 Quick Draws

Photos

Lynn S
 
Lynn S  
 
Very fun pitch with each third offering its own unique challenges. For the upper thin crack I used 2 blue BD X4's, a yellow X4, .3 C4 and .4 C4. Mar 26, 2015
aparnas
 
aparnas  
 
Climbed this today (I was working on Bolts to Bumpyland, but Josh and Lynn happened to be there and recommended that I try BRE) and it is super fun. The upper tips crack can be protected solely with stoppers, which is pretty rad, especially if your rack is light on thin cams. Belayer should wear a helmet, as there is a bit of loose stuff on the route. Dec 6, 2016