Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: FFA: Charlie Fowler, Franci Stagi
Page Views: 2,506 total · 13/month
Shared By: J. Hickok on Jul 5, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


126 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Description

Great lead for the 5.10 climber... but one that will challenge you to stay on top of good gear placements through the bottom. It is located to the right of Astro Lad and is the next route immediately right of Potash Sanction.

Make your way upwards using an array of cracks and features. Soon you'll probably want to angle left towards the right-facing dihedral. Trickier moves set you up for a very short chimney session and then the reach out and around from the chimney to clip the anchors.

It is not recommended to bypass the chimney, although people do it frequently. Can anybody comment on the pitches up higher above this anchor?

As always on Wall Street use your own hardware while your crew topropes this.

Protection

All gear, no bolts or pitons. You can probably bring a single set.

Photos

This is totally incorrect information as far as the anchors on Potash. The are replaced regularly and are not webbing on most. We TR these anchors everyday. Please use draws if you are going to have large parties on the same rope. By the way there is no mystery at all that this is Pinhead.... Nov 10, 2009
erik rieger
Ridgway, CO
 
erik rieger   Ridgway, CO
 
this route is pretty good, you can climb to the upper anchors in the right facing corner and still lower with a 60. there's a bolt where it gets thin up high. May 6, 2012
Jesse Morehouse
CO
  5.10-
Jesse Morehouse   CO
  5.10-
I really enjoyed this route- it had good feet! It climbed a lot like a non-desert route which was a fun change of pace. The difficulty seemed to stay pretty moderate with one or two more strenuous moves at the top. Nov 26, 2012
Michael Dom  
 
Cool moves up top and to begin with. A solid 10. Dec 22, 2015
Alex Temus
Utah
  5.10-
Alex Temus   Utah
  5.10-
Sweet mix of face and crack moves. Pro can be a little difficult to find, I brought #1-3 mastercam and .5-3 camalot and used most of it.

Great route! Oct 15, 2017
Steve Skarvinko
SLC, UT
Steve Skarvinko   SLC, UT
Taking the top right bypass seemed to potentially use a rather large semi-detached block on the far right. Making the final moves on solid gear up the short chimney felt like a way better option as you avoid a potential swing and knocking anything down. I didn't see the mentioned bolt on the route. Nov 20, 2017