Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Canyon Cain and Keith Reynolds
Page Views: 1,329 total · 18/month
Shared By: Jesse Morehouse on Nov 24, 2012
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Description

Described in the Falcon "Best climbs Moab" as "tricky" and a 5 bolt sport route going at 5.10.

It has 5 bolts, the first about 15 or more feet off the ground clipped from an insecure stance. It is tricky at the crux. I would take a few small cams for the pods en route to the first bolt of this sport climb. I whined, sniveled etc more than I think I ever have on a mid grade 5.10. For comparison, and I found all the other 10s in this routes vicinity to be significantly easier. Your mileage may vary.

Still, fun, sequency moves on typical sand covered crimps to a creaky flake.

Location

Imediately right of Fistful of Potash, first route left of the Schoolroom Slabs on a small buttress.

Protection

5 draws and a few small to mid size cams.

Photos

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Michael Dom  
 
Good crimps until you get to your first bolt. Bring small cams if you want to plug up the crack. The excitement comes when you have to lean out to a sand covered flake and really wrench on it. Dec 22, 2015
Nate Sydnor   Moab
FA - Canyon Cain and Keith Reynolds Dec 7, 2016