Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Kyle Copeland, Joy Kor, 1988
Page Views: 18,725 total · 91/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Feb 19, 2002 with updates from George Perkins
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


446 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Description

I couldn't quite bring myself to give a 50 foot sport route on Wall Street 3 stars, but this is a really really good route all the same. Devious face climbing reminiscent of Eldo (thin edges that slant the wrong way, etc.). It starts 2 climbs left of the prominent and popular LF corner, "30 Seconds Over Potash" (in between is a thin .10a LF corner, Lucy in the Sky with Potash"). The first bolt is a bit high (climb in from the right), but once clipped it will be at your waist for the crux sequence. Above is 5.8-5.9ish climbing with 3 adequately spaced bolts, to a good bolted anchor.

Protection

4 bolts. I didn't notice any gear placements. A 50-M rope works fine.
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
I found that climbing in to the first bolt from the right was harder than just going sraight up, then mantling the big edge to stand and clip. This should be done by a solid climber. The sequence after the clip is fun and is reach dependent. A tall person can reach the next two holds and might downgrade the sequence difficulty. This was really fun and mostly positive rather than your typical Navajo formation slopers.

The two bolts side-by side at the 3rd (?) clip were both decent, but one was hangerless. Take up a small stopper to swage this (the nut is still there) and you can back up the clip. May 5, 2003
Matthew  
awesome route, it was the 3rd route i climbed in moab, right after 30 seconds over potash, and lucy in the sky with potash. three classics. this climb felt harder than 10a to me, but i was used to pocketed limestone of AF, so my judgement is rather irrelevent. great climb, recommend it to all. getting to the first bolt can be sketchy if your not solid. Feb 6, 2005
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
Going straight up from the first bolt can make the next several moves a bit harder. An almost-deadpoint worked best for me. Sporty. May 31, 2006
Jonathan Schumacher   Sandy, UT
Novel climb. I could not get used to the (then-1998) pitons as protection. Interesting moves and a nice exhilarating break from crack climbing! Jun 20, 2007
Daniel Crescenzo
  5.10b
Daniel Crescenzo  
  5.10b
height dependent rating. I am 5'7" so this is like a 10b for me. lot's of fun though. I hope that little crystal of calcite stays for a while. Oct 8, 2007
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10b PG13
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10b PG13
good route, but clip that 1st bolt off the big foot ledge down low...i managed to do another move before clipping and scared the crap out of my 'spotter'! Apr 19, 2008
This is a fun route. I first climbed this in 1989, then climbed again about a year ago. I was surprised that the edges were still pretty positive and the climbing hadn't changed much in 18 years. Dec 19, 2008
Lynn S
  5.10a/b
Lynn S  
  5.10a/b
Fun route, first clip is off the ground a bit. Moved through the crux by heading left from the first bolt. Good match to the left for hands, small ramp for feet, go for the obvious large rail out left. Engaging climbing above. Belayer needs to be attentive as there is potential for a near grounder if you mess up the moves getting to the second bolt. Mar 13, 2009
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
  5.10
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
  5.10
Thanks to the ASCA (and I'm guessing Sam) for the new anchor and replacing the old pins on this one. May 6, 2010
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
It was rebolted with bolt placements as close to the originals as possible. This kept it in the style it was done in at the F.A.... and all subsequent ascents til this year Jul 10, 2010
climbed this one the other day. Glad to see the hardware update. Thanks to Sam! Jul 11, 2010
Rob C.
Freeport, ME
  5.10a
Rob C.   Freeport, ME
  5.10a
Fun and reach-y, thanks to the folks that stick clipped the 1st bolt for me! I'm so short. Oct 31, 2010
Cody Drool
BEAVERTON, OR
 
Cody Drool   BEAVERTON, OR
 
Super fun & balancey route. Positive holds. High first bolt like most Moab sport climbs. I would say this is a Potash classic bolted route. A must do! May 21, 2011
Greg Halliday
Spanish Fork, UT
Greg Halliday   Spanish Fork, UT
Great climb. As others have said, it may be more difficult for shorter folks. I'm 5'9" and seem to do okay. The rating is solid for me. May be easier if you're taller; certainly is harder if shorter (my GF at the time told me so.) She was a really good climber and could flash pretty much any 5.11c/d (crack, face, bald slab, juggy overhang, plastic at the gym) you could throw at her. She is/was 5'3" tall and the reach on the crux was vexing. She had to make a smidge of a dyno about it. It was cool to watch. Oct 30, 2011
jeacmusic
  5.10c PG13
jeacmusic  
  5.10c PG13
Crimpalicious !!! Fun, reachy and sequency for the first 2 bolts, the end is a lot of fun!! Feb 24, 2012
Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
  5.10b/c PG13
Dwight Jugornot   Arvada, Co.
  5.10b/c PG13
Yep, that first clip would be ankle damage if you fell. I woulda stick-clipped it if it was much tougher. Very balancy. Felt tougher than10a to me. If it had a couple more bolts, then 10a would be about right. Great route just for the balance it requires. Mar 9, 2012
chosspector
San Juans, CO
chosspector   San Juans, CO
How could more bolts change the grade? Oct 20, 2012
Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
  5.10c
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
  5.10c
Dang! This route was crazy. The first bolt is high! Took me a while to just pull the move and go for the clip. It's almost crazy how this route is outside. It's such a balanc-y and gym like route. Awesome moves the whole way up. Very sustained. It gets run out after the 2nd bolt, but the climbing is easiest here (not easy, but easiest). Everytime you pull a rough move and clip, it felt like there was a great big slopping foot that you could rest on and regain your sanity. Good climb if you get to that first bolt! Oct 23, 2012
Shippster Shipp
Laguna Beach, California
  5.10b
Shippster Shipp   Laguna Beach, California
  5.10b
Did this route today. High quality for the entire pitch. The crux is between the first and second bolts. Match hands and reach high. This is definitely a 5.10b. Nov 6, 2012
Andrew S.
NorWeb
 
Andrew S.   NorWeb
 
This climb is awesome. First bolt is up there. Starting up the ramp can lead to a tricky move around the corner to make the clip. I would go for a direct start next time. Get on it for sure. Nov 21, 2012
JFM
 
JFM  
 
Fun route after getting the first bolt clipped. To echo other comments: send a solid, confident or foolish leader as getting to that first bold is a bit tenuous. May 20, 2013
Justin Brink
Grand Rapids, Michigan
 
Justin Brink   Grand Rapids, Michigan
 
short, but great. Don't miss this one! May be helpful to have a stick clip for the first bolt. Apr 2, 2014
kayajn
 
kayajn  
 
Really fun route, and a nice break from SO MUCH SLAB at potash road. At 5'3'' the beginning felt way harder for me than a 10.a, but great climb regardless. First bolt is really high. Stick clip if you're into that. Nov 3, 2014
Michael Dom
  5.10a
Michael Dom  
  5.10a
I don't think you need to stick clip this guy as the moves are all there. But, there is nothing wrong with safety. Weird moves after the 1st bolt. Dec 22, 2015
Conor O
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10a
Conor O   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10a
Awesome 5.10 start is a little tricky, but it truly is one of my favorite climbs at wall street a must-do! Jan 3, 2016
Garrett C
SL, UT
  5.10a
Garrett C   SL, UT
  5.10a
One of the "juggiest" problems on wallstreet. First bolt is definitely up there, but none of the moves up to it are terribly difficult. I am 5'9" and didnt struggle. Was great to have a problem that wasn't all friction or crack. Great route. Apr 4, 2016
C Miller
CA
  5.10a
C Miller   CA  
  5.10a
When did this route go from being a 5.9 to 5.10a? Feb 27, 2017
baffledsloth
  5.10a PG13
baffledsloth  
  5.10a PG13
I don't know, but the crux is definitely a 10a move. Anyway, one of the anchor bolts is spinning. Bring a wrench to tighten it down. Also, bring a stick clip if you wouldn't climb 20ft off the deck unprotected. It's 5.8ish moves to get there, but there's really no reason not to stick clip it unless you're into highball V-easy. Aug 1, 2017
Hunter King  
 
My wife and my family climbed here today, the climbers next to us accidentally took her shoes (La Sportiva Miura Lace-ups), if you are the climbers here is my number 385-201-8978 May 28, 2018