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Routes in Wall Street

"Big Corner" T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
30 Seconds Over Potash T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
A Fistful of Potash T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Another Roadside Distraction T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arc Angel S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Armageddon S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Astro Dad T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Astro Lad T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Baby Blue T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bad Moki Roof T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Banana Peel S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Best Route Ever T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Beyer Offwidth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big Sky Mud Flaps S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blowing Chunks T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Bolts to Bumpy Land S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Broken Engagements 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3
Brown Banana S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brownie T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X
Campground Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chaco-late Chunk S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Chemistry T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
ChrisCross TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Coup D'etat T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dark Horse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Desp-Arete S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Diplomatic Immunity T A3
Dr Strange Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dunn Copeland T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
East Of Wrath T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eat the Rich T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
El Cracko Diablo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
El Face-o Diablo S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Enigma Campground Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Eyes of Falina T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Faith Flake T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Fernando S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fist Full of Potash Direct TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Flakes of Bongo TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a X
Flakes of Wrath T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flakes of Wrath Direct T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Frogs of a Feather T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good, The Bad, and the Potash, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Grama and the Green Suede Shoes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Half Pipe T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hidden Message S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
High Over Datura S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Holey Moley S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Horizontal Mambo T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
I Love Loosey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jacob's Ladder S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Jingus Launch T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X
Jug Roof T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Junk In The Trunk T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Just Another Pretty Face S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Knapping With The Alien S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lacto Mangulation T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Last Tango in Potash T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lip Balm Addict T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Little Tufa's T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lizard Skills S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lucy in the Sky with Potash T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Man After Midnight S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mephistopheles T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Midnight Frightening T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mini Me T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mini Skirt S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mississippi High Step S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mother Trucker T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Neopolitan S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nervous in Suburbia S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Fly Zone T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Pedigree Poodles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pinhead T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Points West T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Potash Bong Hit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Potash Sanction T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Potstash S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pounding the Frog S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Practical Religion S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Puppy Love T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ralph the Rat S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rhino Might S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Right Side In T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ring Pin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Room With A View T A2+
Room With A View (free) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Sand and Steel T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
School Room Slabs TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Seam As It Ever Was T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Seibernetics T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shadowfax S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
She-la the Peeler S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shoot Up or Shut Up T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skeletonic T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Slab Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smoke Filled Rooms T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Snakes Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Something Nasty T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Static Cling T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Steel Your Face S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stego Slab S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Summit Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Take A Chance On Me S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Tap Root T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tastes Like Chicken S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tempting the Guillotine T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Tired of Talus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Top 40 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twittin Shinkies T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Two Sides of Purple, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uncertain T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Under the Boardwalk S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unemployment Line T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unknown Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Visible Panty Line T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wake of the Flood T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Walk on the Wide Side 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Warsteiner S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Welcome to Anexia T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Willow Whip T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yogini S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zig Zag S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Kyle Copeland, Joy Kor, 1988
Page Views: 16,790 total, 88/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Feb 19, 2002 with updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Poop Alert! Details
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

I couldn't quite bring myself to give a 50 foot sport route on Wall Street 3 stars, but this is a really really good route all the same. Devious face climbing reminiscent of Eldo (thin edges that slant the wrong way, etc.). It starts 2 climbs left of the prominent and popular LF corner, "30 Seconds Over Potash" (in between is a thin .10a LF corner, Lucy in the Sky with Potash"). The first bolt is a bit high (climb in from the right), but once clipped it will be at your waist for the crux sequence. Above is 5.8-5.9ish climbing with 3 adequately spaced bolts, to a good bolted anchor.

Protection

4 bolts. I didn't notice any gear placements. A 50-M rope works fine.
baffledsloth
  5.10a PG13
baffledsloth  
  5.10a PG13
I don't know, but the crux is definitely a 10a move. Anyway, one of the anchor bolts is spinning. Bring a wrench to tighten it down. Also, bring a stick clip if you wouldn't climb 20ft off the deck unprotected. It's 5.8ish moves to get there, but there's really no reason not to stick clip it unless you're into highball V-easy. Aug 1, 2017
When did this route go from being a 5.9 to 5.10a? Feb 27, 2017
C Miller
CA
  5.10a
C Miller   CA  
  5.10a
Garrett C
SL,UT
  5.10a
Garrett C   SL,UT
  5.10a
One of the "juggiest" problems on wallstreet. First bolt is definitely up there, but none of the moves up to it are terribly difficult. I am 5'9" and didnt struggle. Was great to have a problem that wasn't all friction or crack. Great route. Apr 4, 2016
Conor O
Fort Collins, Colorado
  5.10a
Conor O   Fort Collins, Colorado
  5.10a
Awesome 5.10 start is a little tricky, but it truly is one of my favorite climbs at wall street a must-do! Jan 3, 2016
Michael Dom
  5.10a
Michael Dom  
  5.10a
I don't think you need to stick clip this guy as the moves are all there. But, there is nothing wrong with safety. Weird moves after the 1st bolt. Dec 22, 2015
kayajn
 
kayajn  
 
Really fun route, and a nice break from SO MUCH SLAB at potash road. At 5'3'' the beginning felt way harder for me than a 10.a, but great climb regardless. First bolt is really high. Stick clip if you're into that. Nov 3, 2014
Justin Brink
Grand Rapids, Michigan
 
Justin Brink   Grand Rapids, Michigan
 
short, but great. Don't miss this one! May be helpful to have a stick clip for the first bolt. Apr 2, 2014
JFM
 
JFM  
 
Fun route after getting the first bolt clipped. To echo other comments: send a solid, confident or foolish leader as getting to that first bold is a bit tenuous. May 20, 2013
Andrew S.
Bouldurr
 
Andrew S.   Bouldurr
 
This climb is awesome. First bolt is up there. Starting up the ramp can lead to a tricky move around the corner to make the clip. I would go for a direct start next time. Get on it for sure. Nov 21, 2012
Shippster Shipp
Laguna Beach, California
  5.10b
Shippster Shipp   Laguna Beach, California
  5.10b
Did this route today. High quality for the entire pitch. The crux is between the first and second bolts. Match hands and reach high. This is definitely a 5.10b. Nov 6, 2012
Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
  5.10c
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
  5.10c
Dang! This route was crazy. The first bolt is high! Took me a while to just pull the move and go for the clip. It's almost crazy how this route is outside. It's such a balanc-y and gym like route. Awesome moves the whole way up. Very sustained. It gets run out after the 2nd bolt, but the climbing is easiest here (not easy, but easiest). Everytime you pull a rough move and clip, it felt like there was a great big slopping foot that you could rest on and regain your sanity. Good climb if you get to that first bolt! Oct 23, 2012
chosspector
San Juans, CO
chosspector   San Juans, CO
How could more bolts change the grade? Oct 20, 2012
Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
  5.10b/c PG13
Dwight Jugornot   Arvada, Co.
  5.10b/c PG13
Yep, that first clip would be ankle damage if you fell. I woulda stick-clipped it if it was much tougher. Very balancy. Felt tougher than10a to me. If it had a couple more bolts, then 10a would be about right. Great route just for the balance it requires. Mar 9, 2012
jeacmusic
  5.10c PG13
jeacmusic  
  5.10c PG13
Crimpalicious !!! Fun, reachy and sequency for the first 2 bolts, the end is a lot of fun!! Feb 24, 2012
Greg Halliday
Spanish Fork, UT
Greg Halliday   Spanish Fork, UT
Great climb. As others have said, it may be more difficult for shorter folks. I'm 5'9" and seem to do okay. The rating is solid for me. May be easier if you're taller; certainly is harder if shorter (my GF at the time told me so.) She was a really good climber and could flash pretty much any 5.11c/d (crack, face, bald slab, juggy overhang, plastic at the gym) you could throw at her. She is/was 5'3" tall and the reach on the crux was vexing. She had to make a smidge of a dyno about it. It was cool to watch. Oct 30, 2011
Cody Drool
BEAVERTON, OR
 
Cody Drool   BEAVERTON, OR
 
Super fun & balancey route. Positive holds. High first bolt like most Moab sport climbs. I would say this is a Potash classic bolted route. A must do! May 21, 2011
Rob C.
Freeport, ME
  5.10a
Rob C.   Freeport, ME
  5.10a
Fun and reach-y, thanks to the folks that stick clipped the 1st bolt for me! I'm so short. Oct 31, 2010
climbed this one the other day. Glad to see the hardware update. Thanks to Sam! Jul 11, 2010
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
It was rebolted with bolt placements as close to the originals as possible. This kept it in the style it was done in at the F.A.... and all subsequent ascents til this year Jul 10, 2010
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
  5.10
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
  5.10
Thanks to the ASCA (and I'm guessing Sam) for the new anchor and replacing the old pins on this one. May 6, 2010
Lynn S
  5.10a/b
Lynn S  
  5.10a/b
Fun route, first clip is off the ground a bit. Moved through the crux by heading left from the first bolt. Good match to the left for hands, small ramp for feet, go for the obvious large rail out left. Engaging climbing above. Belayer needs to be attentive as there is potential for a near grounder if you mess up the moves getting to the second bolt. Mar 13, 2009
This is a fun route. I first climbed this in 1989, then climbed again about a year ago. I was surprised that the edges were still pretty positive and the climbing hadn't changed much in 18 years. Dec 19, 2008
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10b PG13
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10b PG13
good route, but clip that 1st bolt off the big foot ledge down low...i managed to do another move before clipping and scared the crap out of my 'spotter'! Apr 19, 2008
Daniel Crescenzo
  5.10b
Daniel Crescenzo  
  5.10b
height dependent rating. I am 5'7" so this is like a 10b for me. lot's of fun though. I hope that little crystal of calcite stays for a while. Oct 8, 2007
Jonathan Schumacher   Sandy, UT
Novel climb. I could not get used to the (then-1998) pitons as protection. Interesting moves and a nice exhilarating break from crack climbing! Jun 20, 2007
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
Going straight up from the first bolt can make the next several moves a bit harder. An almost-deadpoint worked best for me. Sporty. May 31, 2006
Matthew  
awesome route, it was the 3rd route i climbed in moab, right after 30 seconds over potash, and lucy in the sky with potash. three classics. this climb felt harder than 10a to me, but i was used to pocketed limestone of AF, so my judgement is rather irrelevent. great climb, recommend it to all. getting to the first bolt can be sketchy if your not solid. Feb 6, 2005
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
I found that climbing in to the first bolt from the right was harder than just going sraight up, then mantling the big edge to stand and clip. This should be done by a solid climber. The sequence after the clip is fun and is reach dependent. A tall person can reach the next two holds and might downgrade the sequence difficulty. This was really fun and mostly positive rather than your typical Navajo formation slopers.

The two bolts side-by side at the 3rd (?) clip were both decent, but one was hangerless. Take up a small stopper to swage this (the nut is still there) and you can back up the clip. May 5, 2003