Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,529 total · 40/month
Shared By: jason malczyk on Aug 16, 2007 with updates from Dillbag
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


61 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Description

Wandering crack of varying sizes with a bolt near top. Three bolt anchor at top of formation, recommended to bring some static line to extend anchor (to prevent further rope damage to rock).
Also, the face to the left of the climb can be top roped (face to the right should not be climbed as it contains petroglyphs)

Location

Located in the middle of the Williams Bottom campground.

Protection

#0.75 to #4 Camelots. There is only a three bolt anchor or you can walk off the route.
Jonathan Amburgey
Salt Lake City, UT
Jonathan Amburgey   Salt Lake City, UT
Beta: As of Jan. 18th 2009, the crack has one bolt with a rappel ring a few feet below the summit. On top, there are 3 bolts (in a triangular pattern) for setting up a top-rope, though they are located on the back side away from the face. To set up a tope-rope with these, you need to extend the TR onto the edge (approximately 12 feet or so from the bolts), or use the single bolt with a rappel ring. Be aware there will be rope drag if using the top anchors (i.e., the 3 bolts) without sufficient extension to the edge, and there are rope groves everywhere on top from past TR's (not to mention unsightly graffiti). The rock is very soft and sandy on top, and given the wavyness of the upper section, the rope can become lodged in the crack (as my partner and I discovered despite extending the TR - we opted to use the 3 bolts rather than the single for added safety).

Jan 19, 2009
John Braun
Hendersonville, NC
 
John Braun   Hendersonville, NC
 
The bolts are, as noted above, about 12ft from the edge. It is basically impossible to toprope the route due to rope grooves unless you extend the master point. This requires ~80ft of cord if you're doing it the conventional way.

Fun climb, though. Apr 17, 2011
Cody Drool
BEAVERTON, OR
 
Cody Drool   BEAVERTON, OR
 
There is a bolt next to a ledge near the top where we top belayed from to lessen the rope friction. Tricky to belay but was a fun interesting climb. This was also my friends first free solo! May 21, 2011
Ryan N
Bellingham, WA
Ryan N   Bellingham, WA
Great route that's away from the crowds on potash and in the shade for most of the day. Not to be missed when climbing on potash. Anchors are probably 15ft from climbs edge. If TR, which I wouldn't recommend, bring lots of material to extend anchor. Oct 13, 2012
Josh Cameron
California
  5.9
Josh Cameron   California
  5.9
Setting up a TR was super easy for us. 3 cordelettes and some biners and we had the power point over the edge, the rope ran freely, and the rope stayed out of the crack.

It's a fun little climb with good rock quality to start, then it slowly deteriorates the higher you climb. I second the gear selection: .75 to a #4 camalot. Bolt protects the exit moves. May 1, 2015
Nickc Diaz  
 
I truly don't understand why the anchor is so far back from the edge. I felt like this was a very difficult 9, especially with the VERY poor quality rock near the top. I had to take a second look at the perfect looking slab foothold that I slid right off of. I've never had that happen on a hold that looked that good. Exhausting and not that fun. Nov 20, 2017
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
Fun route with some awkwardness to it. Anchor situation sucks. Jan 15, 2018