Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Kyle Copeland, Linus Platt, 91
Page Views: 8,660 total · 57/month
Shared By: Petsfed on May 31, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


129 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Description

Fun crimps and mantles up an ever-so-slightly under vertical wall. Hard for short people. All the hard moves are at bolts, and/or from large ledges that you can safely land on if you miss. Good holds all the way.

Location

OBVIOUS sport route on edges, about 50 yards right of Bad Moki Roof.

Protection

5 drilled pins and chains
Dane Casterson
Boulder
Dane Casterson   Boulder
Any word on how that last pin before the anchors is fairing? Spring '07 it was getting a little wobbly. Oct 24, 2007
T_jones
Salt Lake
T_jones   Salt Lake
Great bolts spaced super close together when I climbed this yesterday...the crux was a little perplexing with so many different holds to choose from that were all pretty bad Apr 21, 2008
Greg D
Here
  5.12-
Greg D   Here
  5.12-
All bolts were in fine condition as of fall 08. Jan 30, 2009
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.12a
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.12a
All the bolts on this are fine as of march 2010. What a sweet little route! Good technical face climbing with some good rests to size up the crux moves before you go for it. Mar 31, 2010
Conor Raney
Pinedale, WY
  5.12-
Conor Raney   Pinedale, WY
  5.12-
Loved this one!!! I love napping with aliens...no really, I do. Nov 1, 2010
Jikimika Dinglehoffer   Lander, Wy
Ok climb but watch the ledges around bolt 4, they can be in the path of a fall at the upper crux. Would be great but the feet are WAY too sandy to be doing technically demanding moves on. Apr 12, 2011
timothyrgriffen Griffen  
  5.11c/d
Not sure if I would call this thing 12a. It's Maybe 5.10 climbing to a v4-boulder problem. Closer to 11c. May 4, 2012
Excellent route. I would definently recommend this one. I think this is probably 5.11d. May 20, 2012
D-Storm
  5.12a PG13
D-Storm  
  5.12a PG13
The route is well bolted – the bolts are exactly where you need them and where the best clipping stances are – but I thought the second clip was kind of dicey. It's sort of mid-crux and you're far enough up and right of the first bolt that you could have a nasty fall onto the ledge if a foot slipped and your core strength gave out. Heads up for anyone unsure about leading the grade.

@ Timothy regarding the grade: V4 equates to 12a in most V-scale conversion tables I have seen. V3 is 11+, V2 is 11-, and V0 is 5.10; in my experience that's been pretty accurate.

I guess I'm bringing this up just because I am getting tired of the Moab sandbags and attitude. Call me a weakling, I don't care. I'm just saying that every time I climb around there, I feel an air of arrogance wafting from some locals who hover around the routes they have dialed, spray visitors down with unsolicited beta and then affirm that blahblahblah is really a full grade lower than what it says in the guidebook (if it even says it in the guidebook). I still climb the routes. I still think they're fun and I haven't cared enough to say anything until now, because this attitude is getting old. (This isn't necessarily directed at Tim; he just touched on a topic that set me off.)

As for me, when it comes to grading routes, I really try to give an honest opinion to help people choose appropriate climbs. Sometimes I get the distinct impression that a dirtbag is just trying to mash my ego down with his big dick, and this is me saying, I get it – your dick is huge. Now leave me alone to enjoy my climbing experience. Mar 13, 2014
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Very very good route. 12- seems right to me... the v4 boulder problem at the top I think constitutes that. Have at her! Super good climbing! Mar 27, 2014
Michael Dom
  5.12-
Michael Dom  
  5.12-
Really memorable route. If you are under 5'5 you won't reach the first bolt from the ledge. The moves are so cool at the top. I ended up taking some great whips on this route. Dec 22, 2015
Samuel Ellis
  5.12a
Samuel Ellis  
  5.12a
Awesome route. Watch out for all of the useless chalked up holds on the crux. The beta can get a bit confusing if you let them distract you. The direct approach of the crux is the best way to go. Mar 21, 2017
Andrew Gerald Thaller  
  5.12-
First time the high bolt can be intimidating but if your worried about it place a .75 BD Camalot. As for a grade it's easier if your tall, so somewhere between 5.10a and 5.13a should cover the egos right? Apr 1, 2017
BrokenChairs ~
Sultan, WA
  5.12-
BrokenChairs ~   Sultan, WA
  5.12-
Me and this route: I'm driving down Potash looking for a route and everything (as usual) is crowded and then I spot this beauty. I was like that looks like Nervous in Suburbia! Babe pull over lets do this 5.10. Her: do you know what it is? Me: no but look at it it's for sure 5.10. Lesson learned not all routes are as they appear. I absolutely enjoyed it though. Aug 30, 2017