Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: It's an Enigma
Page Views: 2,499 total · 21/month
Shared By: jmeizis on Apr 11, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Description

It can be done as two pitches or one. I found it fine to string the pitches together. The first half is an easy slab then it moves into the dihedral with the crux being near the start of the corner. After this a few more tricky moves gain some cruising layback moves to the anchors.

Location

This climb is the prominent corner (left or right depends on where you look from) above the Willams Bottom campground. Try to avoid making more trails to the base. Although it's annoying bring a second rope for the rappel. Unless you're comfortable rapping off one bolt.

Protection

A set of nuts and some quickdraws for the bottom. Then cams .75-3 with a few extra #1's

Photos

Cody Drool
BEAVERTON, OR
 
Cody Drool   BEAVERTON, OR
 
My buddy and I climbed this as my first night climb with headlamps. We had no topo, but he had told me was about a 5.9 [a little lie to get me to lead it]. It turned out that it was out of my ability [go figure] and I took several lead falls at the crux. I lowered off. Jonathan made it to the anchors [1 pitch, 70m rope]. He belayed me up but I struggled at the same point and couldnt complete the climb. Jonathan double rapped. We placed no gear, as we only had quickdraws. Jonathan cruised through the 'cruising layback moves' at the top, though he said some 2s or 3s coulda been used to avoid a potentially big fall. I didnt finish it but it was awesome fun . . . Oh the things youll do when you polish off a bottle of Sailor Jerry May 21, 2011
Kevin Gillest
Arvada, CO
  5.10c
Kevin Gillest   Arvada, CO
  5.10c
Climbing this Oct 7th 2011 with Mike Keegan.
There are a few issues of concern:
-Second bolt of pitch 1 is missing the hanger, if you are crafty and carry narrow 24" runners it can be girth hitched, and relatively safe
-First chain anchor is a single, there is a second drilled hole, no stud or chain.
We linked all bolts to the first pitch, belayed at the base of the dihedral with no issues other than a short 2nd pitch. The entire route could be done in 1 long pitch, with a double rope rappel. We had left the drill in CO or we would have fixed, maybe next time.

Really no PG13 if you can rig the second bolt though. Oct 10, 2011