Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: Kyle Copeland, Charlie Fowler, Marc Hirt and Tim Hudgel '89
Page Views: 2,767 total · 20/month
Shared By: Brad Brandewie on May 23, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


39 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Description

This route begins just to the climber's left of relfector post #4 and is on the next major buttress to the right of the Summit Chimneys area.

Climb up and then move left following bolts and placing gear. If the bolts have not been replaced you might want to bring a couple screamers.

Protection

A set of cams up to #2 Camalot, 6 quickdraws, a few runners.

Photos

This is a good route with aesthetic moves but as with many routes on this rock it seems some of the edges are wearing away and perhaps the grade is ticking up a bit as a result. The bolts are updated. To supplement the bolts a red alien works between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. A small nut between the 3rd and 4th bolts and a #4 camalot above the last bolt protecting the last crux move would give you some additional piece of mind and gear at your waste as you pull the move.

Have fun! Mar 4, 2009
Bill Flaherty
Evergreen, CO
Bill Flaherty   Evergreen, CO
I can't believe I am still stupid enough to post comments about routes being tough. I understand that many folks will find this route easy, that others did it without clipping the bolts, or that climbing it naked, free solo, under a full moon is the only way to fully experience it. All the same, I found this thing tough for the grade. It has a few hard sections, with varied and fairly technical solutions to each. One way to get acquainted with it is to do the superb 10c to the right (Frogs of a Feather - climbs way easier), then drop the TR on it. OK, let the slagging begin... Mar 5, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Not stupid at all. Well-educated and informed grade comments are always a bonus for some members of the user-group. Mar 6, 2009
Eric Odenthal
Moab, UT
 
Eric Odenthal   Moab, UT
 
classic line. Thank you Kyle!
bring a blue alien, #4 new camalot, #2 camalot, #.75 camalot.
you'll be psyched.
Don't screw with gear at the crux, just SHOOT UP! Jun 30, 2011
Brett Winterbottom
Park City, UT
  5.11-
Brett Winterbottom   Park City, UT
  5.11-
Great sport route! This really makes you stick a few reachy moves if your on the shorter side like me, I understand why the name is what it is. Top runs out quite a bit but is super easy climbing. DO watch how you clip your first QD, due to the traverse left it can make for an ugly fall to open the gate and deck. Its not a hard clip on the second bolt but just as a warning. Mar 29, 2014