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Static Cling

5.11-, Trad, 70 ft,  Avg: 3.5 from 223 votes
FA: Jim Beyer, Pat McInerney, February 1990
Utah > Moab Area > Potash Rd > Wall Street
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Description

Climb the thin crack system and pull up under the roof utilizing some side pulls (crux). Pull the roof (2nd crux) and continue to anchors on the right wall.

The moves are aesthetic, and you can find some great rests, a great route.
Although it certainly won't compare to longer classic routes, it is definitely one of the best on wall street.

Location

This route is located about 50 feet right of Top Forty in a highly chalked left facing dihedral with a thin crack system, and a roof about 2/3 of the way up.

There is a chalked up flake to the left that leads to the same anchors, Potash Bong Hit, a top rope climb.

Protection

A set of camalots to a number 3, small pieces (tcu's) are helpful, and a set of nuts. Draws to extend pieces below the roof.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Bruce reaching through the crux of Static Cling.
[Hide Photo] Bruce reaching through the crux of Static Cling.
nice corner
[Hide Photo] nice corner
Matt below the roof, entering the crux of the climb
[Hide Photo] Matt below the roof, entering the crux of the climb
Uknown belayer at the base of Static Cling.  This route has a 500 foot over hang above it. So, it remains bone dry even in a downpour.  I took the photo. I don't know who the climbers are.
[Hide Photo] Uknown belayer at the base of Static Cling. This route has a 500 foot over hang above it. So, it remains bone dry even in a downpour. I took the photo. I don't know who the climbers are.
Rest before Roof crux.
[Hide Photo] Rest before Roof crux.
Mike Keegan nearing the roof, GoPro fish eye view
[Hide Photo] Mike Keegan nearing the roof, GoPro fish eye view
Lisa Gillest working the thin finger lieback
[Hide Photo] Lisa Gillest working the thin finger lieback
Moving through the crux below the roof
[Hide Photo] Moving through the crux below the roof
Static Cling
[Hide Photo] Static Cling

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Greg D
Here
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] This is a quality climb and can be climbed in the rain (see photo) as well as Potash Bong Hit(5.9) which starts just 15 feet left and shares the same achors as Static Cling. Potash Bong Hit is worth doing and protects fairly well even though some guide books call it a top rope. See Potash Bong Hit on this website for more details. Feb 10, 2008
[Hide Comment] For me, the key gear were a #0 and #00 TCU (purple + grey). These can protect the crux moves below and through the small roof. May 28, 2009
Clayton Rardon
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.11
[Hide Comment] excellent varied climb. easy to protect. Highly Recommended for the 5.11a leader. place a directional below the roof if you're going to TR. HAVE FUN! Mar 31, 2010
Kevin Gillest
Winter Park CO
  5.11-
[Hide Comment] Great route, not to be missed on Wall Street. Good gear, great movement. Oct 6, 2011
zach cook
Boise, ID
[Hide Comment] A must do if your strutting the strip. fun jams with great feet and and sweet traverse into a an awesome roof crux! Apr 10, 2015
Emily C Sukiennik
Sedona, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] Love this climb. Still haven't done it clean, the move right under the roof is a bit tough if you're not super tall. May 27, 2015
Michael Dom
  5.11a/b
[Hide Comment] Make it fun and dyno once you hit the corner! Dec 22, 2015
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
[Hide Comment] Small purple tcu not needed as bomber horizontal prior to the roof and good finger crack after offer better gear. Easy for the grade as compared to baby blue due to ridiculous number of rests Nov 3, 2017
Steve Miller
West Jordan
 
[Hide Comment] Everything on this route is a little better/ easier that I initially thought. I placed a #1 and .75 in horizontal crack before roof crux. First 5.11 trad lead. Really great! Feb 2, 2019