PRINT: Rock Climb Horizontal Mambo, Southeast Utah

Horizontal Mambo

5.12d, Trad, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 3.6 from 54 votes
FA: Luke Malatesta et al, FFA: Mason Earle, November 2010
Utah > Southeast Utah > Potash Rd > Wall Street

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Recently there has been a rash of human poops along Wall Street. There are bathrooms in the campgrounds a half mile from popular crags here. Use them. Otherwise, portable toilet systems are required in Grand County. Be prepared to carry human waste out on the trail.

Description

Climb the low angle dihedral start of Bad Moki Roof but head right under the big roof along positive holds in the horizontal crack, clipping the fixed draws, rather then up the leftward thin hand crack of BMR. Most of the holds are good but feet are non-existent so some horizontal positioning is required to prevent campusing the route. Really fun. Crux comes right at the end.

Location

Same start as Bad Moki Roof. Look for the fixed draws heading horizontally below a big roof.

Protection

A few small pieces in the .3 to .75 camalot range for Bad Moki start, one draw for first bolt, then fixed draws to finish.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Climber Kathy Karlo
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Photo by Anthony Johnson (Agjohnsphotography)

Climber Kathy Karlo Photo by Anthony Johnson (Agjohnsphotography)

Right before I fell and quit the route.

Good look at the start of the business

Climber Kathy Karlo Photo by Anthony Johnson (Agjohnsphotography)

getting to the crux. Photo cred: Michael Loh

Greg clipping the fourth bolt with style

Mamboooooo

Plenty of pictures of me in between bolts. No pictures of me clipping the chains. All those pictures were...uhhh...lost...that's what happened.

Heel hook beta

Getting horizontal

Doing the mambo, the horizontal mambo...

Looking up from belay. The route that busts out right under the roof is a 12d called Horizontal Mambo.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jeremy Steck
Salt Lake City, UT

Great climb! I found that campusing some sections is far easier than spending the time to get your feet in the flake. Hard to make the clips. A few of the holds toward the end are somewhat friable. Oct 10, 2011

Mason Earle
USA

I believe I did the FFA on this one (nov 2010). The bolt twists out from people hanging on the route I would guess. Glue-ins would work well for this pitch. Press out the mantle at the end, or no send!! Mar 24, 2012

Paul Robertson

The first ascent was done free. bolts came later Oct 3, 2013

Clark Aegerter 1
Orem, Utah

So i got on this climb this weekend and i am wondering where this climb ends, Mason you said you have to pull the mantel and then what do you do? is it the chains way out to the right on the slabs? I am looking for the answers so that i can count this one... some day. :-) Nov 9, 2015

Evan Wisheropp

What a cool route! I would agree 5.12d through the roof, though the sandy and slopey mantle feels like it pushes the route to 13-. Perhaps it would be easier after the sand is blown off. The roof is really incredible though, I used a mix of campusing and heel/toe hooks. Apr 3, 2016

Andrew Gerald Thaller

5.12d

I’ve tried this route over the years and the mantle is still a sandy mess. Finally sent to the lip and in taking my god damn 12d! Feb 20, 2021

Ian Edison
Seattle, WA

The third and fifth perma carabiners (orange) are extremely worn and should probably be replaced with steel ones. They also like to flip upside down. The third bolt is about an inch out again as well. Apr 24, 2021

John Shin
Denver, CO

looks like the 3rd bolt is missing as of 11/14/21 :( Nov 15, 2021

Tavish Hansen

Still kind of doable without the third bolt but you would not want to fall clipping the fourth. And you'd be in a world of hurt if that one blew from a fall at the crux. Nov 30, 2021

Adam Fleming
AMGA Certified Rock Guide; SLC

First through fourth bolts replaced with glue-ins courtesy of the ASCA.

Hopefully this will be the final time this route needs rebolting. I also added real permadraws instead of chain for the first four bolts. Old bolts are still there since I didn't have a wrench big enough for them (3/4"). If you want to do some service, bring something to remove them and patch up the holes. Dec 15, 2021

Valentin Lendenmann

That is such a cool route, I loved it! Feb 15, 2022

Brad Burns
Story, WY

5.12d

Phenomenal and gymnastic. Would be easier without legs, I think. Mar 14, 2024