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Best finger cracks in N. America
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I'm traveling right now and I love seeking out finger cracks in each new place I visit. Here are some of my favorites from along the way, please add your local routes and ill update the list. Hope this gets other finger crack enthusiasts psyched too! Northeast:
Southeast:
Colorado:
West:
California:
Utah: |
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Any grade range? Straight in only? will stick to straight in California: Cosmic Debris, Yosemite Grey Ghost, Patricia Bowl Fish Crack, Yosemite Space Walk (direct variation), Tahoe Overhanging 14-, Movement SF (not kidding, it’s amazing)
Immaculate Conception (p2), Indian Creek Critic’s Choice, Indian Creek Digital Readout, Indian Creek |
John Clarkwrote: All grades! I need projects to dream about. Doesnt have to be straight in, but of course that gets extra points |
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Extra Lean (Indian Creek, UT) Some of the rocks I’ve fingered over the last year. :P |
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The 4th ascent of Meltdown is up for grabs! |
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Agree with the above and would like to add: Ultimate finger crack on Becky Route, Bastille Buttress, Lone Pine Peak Vector, Joshua Tree Forest Lawn, Cochise Old School Executioner, Cochise Espresso Crack, Little Egypt Fine Jade crux pitch, Rectory |
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On the Northeast, there is a multitude of phenomenal cracks. It's funny when a lot of people think about finger cracks in the NE, Connecticut cracks comes up a lot. While it is a nice finger crack (With only 4 true crack climb moves), even in just Acadia NP there are at least a dozen other finger cracks that are better IMO. If you are looking for thin pretty hard stuff you cant get much better than Heather on Cathedral Ledge. Other phenomenal cracks, (mostly in Acadia cause thats where I climb) are, grouped by grade. Ranked in a star system, 3 being the best. I don't know how these stack up against the rest of what people think. I've climbed other small cracks but I always return to Acadia when I think of great finger cracks. Overall, across those climbs listed below I think my top two are Emigrant Crack & Jaws. Here is a link to a previous thread for hard thin finger cracks just the NE https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/123369469/best-thin-cracks-in-the-northeast 5.10 Chitlins Corner (5.10a)* Fear of Flying (5.10a) *** Emigrant crack (5.10b) *** A Dare (Adair) By The Sea (5.10b/c)** Scaramouche (5.10d R) Dynamo Hum (5.10d)* 5.11 Jaws (5.11b)*** Space Between (5.11b/c)* High Wire (5.11c) ** Maniacal Depression (5.11c)* Selfless Bastard (5.11c)** 5.12 Small Crack Warning (5.12a) Pipe Dreams (5.12b)** Hombre De Acero (5.12b)** |
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That thing in the Vampires has gotta be up there. |
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Squamish is a must visit for the finger crack aficionado. Exasperator 10c Crime of the Century 11c The Masses are Asses 12b Zap Crack 12d Cobra Crack 14b Among many others. |
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Trout Creek, OR is also stacked with good hard finger cracks on columnar rock: Winter Sustenance 5.12 Fall Line 5.13 --- For the everyman version of PNW columnar cracks, The Bend at Tieton is pretty unique for concentration at the 5.10 grade. I don't think any of them are quite 5 stars - rock quality isn't quite perfect - but you can climb at least a half dozen 4 star 5.10 finger cracks without hardly having to move your rope bag. One of my favorites: |
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Screaming yellow zonkers in NH is one of the best I've climbed. |
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Paradise Forks in Northern Arizona has some great fingers. |
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I haven't climbed them, but Chasing the Wind and Welcome to Beauty at Beauty Mtn, NRG look like really awesome finger cracks. I belayed someone on the second pitch of chasing the wind and it looks hard. Burning Calves at Beauty Mtn is another good finger crack, but not as splitter as some others mentioned |
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For Utah, you mention Sig Saur which is really only about 20 feet of sustained fingers. Overall a fairly ok short climb. Not deserving of a best of list. You can’t mention Zion without Moonlight Buttress. You just can’t. Serenity crack is great for your first day in the valley. Also not a list worthy route. But I am just a grumpy old lady. What do I know. Add Welcome to Ol’ Kentuck for the RRG Add Thinner for Indian Creek. |
highaltitudeflatulentexpulsionwrote: Serenity Crack isn’t list worthy? You are grumpy |
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Mission to Mars- Sedona, AZ |
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One Way Sunset Bloodguard (all time!) Max Factor |
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Puma at Cat Wall, a lot of Cat Wall actually. |
John Clarkwrote: There's a 14- finger crack at a gym in SF? Are there any pictures of this? |
