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Routes in Cerberus Gendarme

Cave Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cherry Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cynthia's Hand Job T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dire Wolf T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Electrica T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Fails of Power T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fat Hedral, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flip of a Coin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Intruder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mean High Tide T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
No Holds Barred T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scarlet Begonias T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Squeeze Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tales of Flails T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Touchstone Wall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Randy Leavitt
Page Views: 3,302 total, 27/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Dec 19, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a great line and one of the harder offerings at the base of Cerberus Gendarme. Pretty straightforward: finger jams in a splitter crack and they get thin before the anchors, which is probably the crux for most people, as it was for me.

Location

This route is about 150 feet right of Cherry Crack and ascends the obvious thin splitter that cuts through the clean face.

Protection

A bunch of finger-size pieces, including blue Metolius but no bigger than purple Camalot.

Photos

drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
  5.11+
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
  5.11+
I remember doing this back in the day. Pumped as I reached the belay, I grabbed the webbing threaded through a two pin belay —one popped out, the other slid. Needless to say, after placing some cams, I hauled up the drill. A great sustained line. Mar 6, 2014
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.11d
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.11d
Despite what it says in the description , I managed to place a .5, .75, 1 and 3 Camalot on this route. Plus two .3 and .4 Camalots and a #1 C3 as well. This is indeed a great route- clipping the chains is the crux IMO. Dec 15, 2013
Weston L
Summerlin, NV
  5.11+
Weston L   Summerlin, NV
  5.11+
Wow this thing is incredible. Will take every .3 or .4 you throw at it. Stellar route, definitely one you keep replaying in your head after. Fantastic!

RE: What Andy says below, definitely worthwhile bringing a pair of .5's and I think a single .75, 1, and 2 or 3. Dec 15, 2013
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Much harder then Dire Wolf...But really good none the less Feb 23, 2009
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
A few .3 BD's were the perfect for the upper thin crack. Blue metolius were tipped. Not the best warm-up. Nov 10, 2008