Avg: 3.9 from 57 votes
|Type:||Trad, 115 ft (35 m)|
|FA:||FA Darren Singer 1992, Full Route FA Dan Foster/ JJ Schlick 2002|
|Page Views:||4,172 total · 28/month|
|Shared By:||JJ Schlick on Aug 17, 2008|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
After filling Dan in on the prospects, he casually flashed the route and then punched it through the final 40’ of overhanging finger splitter onsight. An anchor was placed, and a cross generational route was born. All this created one of the longest pitches on the right side, as well as, one of the most classic 5.11, all natural gear lines at the crag. It is a glorious haul with a lot of crisp, steep jamming.
Starts on a zig-zagging crack made of large blocks, directly above large, pointy boulder. Take care when leading or following because a fall onto this rock would probably ruin your day or more. The start is both physical, and somewhat deceptive and feels like 10+. Continue up through a blocky chute, and make your way to the "diving board" feature which juts out of the wall.
Once you get onto the diving board, expect small hands to fingers, with a 5.11 finger crux mid height. There is a good rest at the point of where the old school anchors once rested and take advantage of that, because the climbing gets more strenuous and steep from here with fingers, edges, and pockets with muscley climbing. The gear can be a bit tricky on this section...save a #.5, #.75, and a #1 BD Cam for the top. The climbing is physical, though the edges are excellent.