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Routes in The Right Wall

A Wonderful Life T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
American Caesar T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Aquarius Rising T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Barbarian Rising T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bootlegger, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Brother From Another Mother S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Brother Of Fortune T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burgermeister, The T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Consensual Hex T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Crescent Moon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Donald Duckin It T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Dr. Octagon T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
East Coast Fist Bump T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Flavor of the Day T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Full Steam Ahead T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Harder They Come, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Helicopter Exodus T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Kindness T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Labor Day T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Locks of Dread T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Natural Enhancement T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
No Feelings T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
No Utopia T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Parting Gift T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Proud Father T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Resurrection T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rice Paddy Ambush T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Smilin' Jay T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snap Happy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Soldier of Fortune T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Soul Market T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Starry Night T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sweet Dreams T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Tainted Love T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trident, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Turn Down, For What? T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Vietnam Vacation T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wasp Whisperer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: FA Darren Singer 1992, Dan Foster/ JJ Schlick on the extension 2002
Page Views: 2,856 total, 25/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Aug 17, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


39 Opinions

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Description

The first 75' of this line was done by Darren Singer, and ended at a webbing anchor with old Chouinard Curved Nuts. Instead of placing a modern anchor at this point, Dan Foster fired up the last 25'-30' of overhanging finger splitter, and created one of the longest pitches on the right side, as well as, one of the most classic 5.11, all natural gear lines at the crag. It is a haul.

Starts on a zig-zagging crack made of large blocks, directly above large, pointy boulder. The start is both physical, and somewhat deceptive and feels like 10+. Take care when leading or following because a fall onto this rock would probably ruin your day or more. Continue up through a blocky chute, and make your way to the "diving board" feature which juts out of the wall.

Once you get onto the diving board, expect small hands to fingers, with a 5.11 finger crux mid height. There is a good rest at the point of where the old school anchors once rested, and take advantage of that, because the climbing gets more strenuous and steep from here with fingers, edges, and pockets coming at you in a hard way. The gear can be a bit tricky on this section...save a .5, .75, and a #1 BD Cam for the top. The climbing is physical, though the edges are excellent.

Location

Just left of No Feelings, A little ways right of Smiling Jay.

Protection

  • ** A 70 meter rope will barely suffice for this thing*** Anchors are above the last ledge way up high and out of sight(Two Fixe rap/ring bolts)

Triples from Blue Metolious to Red Camalot, a fine selection of medium nuts, as well as whatever you place on the beginning.
Robbie Brown
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11c
Robbie Brown   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11c
Just sooo sooo good! Sep 6, 2013
Monica Jones
Bishop, CA
 
Monica Jones   Bishop, CA
 
Amazing! I loved this route. It was long, took great gear, had lots of rests, and climbed like a dream. One of my favorites for sure. May 30, 2011
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
This route is just beautiful! It's sustained with mostly good fingerlocks and jams as well as good faceholds for the feet. Pure crackclimbing the whole way with all natural pro. The start was definitely "heads-up" but not technically difficult. Yet another awesome pitch at a crag stacked with them. Jun 28, 2009