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Natural Enhancement
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British PG13
Avg: 3.9 from 92
votes
Routes in 3. The Right Wall
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A Wonderful Life T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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American Caesar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Aquarius Rising T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Barbarian Rising T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bootlegger, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Brother from Another Mother S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Brother of Fortune T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Burgermeister, The T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Consensual Hex T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Cookin’ with Gas S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Crescent Moon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Dark Sky T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Death Spiral T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Donald Duckin It T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Dr. Octagon T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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East Coast Fist Bump T 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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East Coast Fist Bump OG Variation T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Flavor of the Day T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Full Steam Ahead T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Harder they Come, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Helicopter Exodus T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Jr Bacon Burgermeister T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Kindness T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Labor Day T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Locks of Dread T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Natural Enhancement T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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No Feelings T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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No Utopia T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Over the Moon T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Parting Gift T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Proud Bootlegger T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Proud Father T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Resurrection T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rice Paddy Ambush T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Smilin' Jay T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Snap Happy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Soldier of Fortune T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Soul Market T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Special Child T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Starry Night T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sweet Dreams T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Tainted Love T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Three Sheets to the Wind T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Trident, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Turn Down, For What? T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Vietnam Vacation T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Wasp Whisperer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 115 ft (35 m) |
| FA: | FA Darren Singer 1992, Full Route FA Dan Foster, JJ Schlick 2002 |
| Page Views: | 5,793 total · 29/month |
| Shared By: | JJ Schlick on Aug 17, 2008 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
At some point in time, Dan Foster and I made it a mission to climb any unknown route with tatty anchors and install a modern anchor. It was a surprising number of routes and this line had some of the last tat to go. The first 75' of this route was done by Darren Singer in the early 90’s and ended at a webbing anchor with old Chouinard Curved Nuts. After onsighting to this anchor and exhausting crucial pieces of my rack, I lowered off staring at the top 40’ of steep terrain. After filling Dan in on the prospects, he casually flashed the route and then punched it through the final 40’ of overhanging finger splitter onsight. An anchor was placed, and a cross generational route was born. All this created one of the longest pitches on the right side, as well as, one of the most classic 5.11, all natural gear lines at the crag. It is a glorious haul with a lot of crisp, steep jamming.
Starts on a zig-zagging crack made of large blocks, directly above a large, pointy boulder. Take care when leading or following because a fall onto this rock would probably ruin your day or more. The start is both physical, somewhat deceptive, and IMHO feels every bit 5.10d/11a. It’s the kind of climbing people explode off of. Continue up through a blocky chute, and make your way to the "diving board" feature which juts out of the wall.
Once you get onto the diving board, expect small hands to fingers, with a 5.11 finger crux mid height. There is a good rest at the point where the tatty anchors once rested and take advantage of that, because the climbing gets more strenuous and steep from here with fingers, edges, and pockets with muscley climbing. The gear can be a bit tricky on this section...save a #.5, #.75, and a #1 BD Cam for the top. The climbing is physical, though the edges are excellent.
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