Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: FA Darren Singer 1992, Foster/ Schlick Full Route 2002
Page Views: 3,499 total · 27/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Aug 17, 2008
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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50 Opinions

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Description

At some point in time, Dan Foster and I made it a mission to climb any unknown route with tatty anchors and install a modern anchor. It was a surprising number of routes and this line had some of the last tat to go. The first 75' of this route was done by Darren Singer in the early 90’s and ended at a webbing anchor with old Chouinard Curved Nuts. After onsighting to this anchor and exhausting crucial pieces of my rack, I lowered off staring at the top 40’ of steep terrain. 

After filling Dan in on the prospects, he casually flashed the route and then punched it through the final 25'-30' of overhanging finger splitter onsight. An anchor was placed, and a cross generational route was born. All this created one of the longest pitches on the right side, as well as, one of the most classic 5.11, all natural gear lines at the crag. It is a glorious haul with a lot of crisp jamming.

Starts on a zig-zagging crack made of large blocks, directly above large, pointy boulder. The start is both physical, and somewhat deceptive and feels like 10+. Take care when leading or following because a fall onto this rock would probably ruin your day or more. Continue up through a blocky chute, and make your way to the "diving board" feature which juts out of the wall.

Once you get onto the diving board, expect small hands to fingers, with a 5.11 finger crux mid height. There is a good rest at the point of where the old school anchors once rested and take advantage of that, because the climbing gets more strenuous and steep from here with fingers, edges, and pockets with muscley climbing. The gear can be a bit tricky on this section...save a #.5, #.75, and a #1 BD Cam for the top. The climbing is physical, though the edges are excellent.

Location

Just left of No Feelings, A little ways right of Smiling Jay.

Protection

70M rope. Anchors are above the last ledge way up out of sight while you are climbing.

Triples from #0 Metolious TCU to #1 Camalot, a fine selection of medium nuts, as well as whatever you place in the beginning.
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
This route is just beautiful! It's sustained with mostly good fingerlocks and jams as well as good faceholds for the feet. Pure crackclimbing the whole way with all natural pro. The start was definitely "heads-up" but not technically difficult. Yet another awesome pitch at a crag stacked with them. Jun 28, 2009
Monica Jones
Bishop, CA
 
Monica Jones   Bishop, CA
 
Amazing! I loved this route. It was long, took great gear, had lots of rests, and climbed like a dream. One of my favorites for sure. May 30, 2011
Robbie Brown
the road
  5.11c
Robbie Brown   the road
  5.11c
Just sooo sooo good! Sep 6, 2013