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Routes in Airation Buttress

Airation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Autoclave T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Camber T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Camber View T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Clean Sweep T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Creation T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Heather T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kill Your Television T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Mystery Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Northern Hospitality S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Pine Tree Eliminate T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Play Misty T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Practice Chimney (offwidth), The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Practice Makes Perfect T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reach the Sky T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Room with a View S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stage Fright T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Tabu T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tourist Treat T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Henry Barber, J. Brag, Bob Anderson, Aug. 23, 1973
Page Views: 12,291 total, 93/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Feb 17, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Airation is a perfect straightforward finger crack. The crux is dealing with the pain of the sharp fingerlocks. This is a great example of 5.11a fingers. Footwork is key as there are many small feet on the face.

Pitch 1: 5.11a follow the picture-perfect, finger crack to a tree with a fixed sling and rings. Most people only do the first pitch.

Pitch 2: Follow the lower angled rock to the top.

Location

Start on a tree-covered ledge just left of the original finish for Thin Air (5.6), which is a leaf filled gully. (Be careful stepping over the gap to the base of the climb...If you slip it's a looooong way down.) From the ledge, find the nicest finger crack. Have fun...

Protection

Cams from thin fingers to wide fingers and some nuts.
Jerome St-Michel
Montreal, QUÉBEC
  5.11a
Jerome St-Michel   Montreal, QUÉBEC
  5.11a
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
Mantling always makes me mad, John. [wink] And you're right, Jay, in 37 feet there are about 143 finger locks. The first pitch really should have a bolted anchor about halfway up (so you can get all those locks back for the rest of it). May 6, 2015
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Jimmie Dunn told me that EVERY time he guided Thin Air, he did Airation..that's a lot of times

if the tree came out and you mad to mantle on the ledge,it would be several feet longer Mar 13, 2014
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Thirty-seven feet? Given that I was finger jamming about every nine inches, and subtract the first five feet, that means I did over 40 jams in that length. That sounds about right. No wonder it seems taller. Mar 13, 2014
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
When Jerry Handren was writing the new guidebook to the area he measured Airation: Thirty-seven feet. (I wrote out the number to make it seem longer). But boy, it sure climbs longer than that! Also, the climb is directly above the top-out on Thin Air. Often when we guided T-Air we would point up Airation and say to our clients, "That's the direct finish. Wanna do it?" Once the color came back to their faces, we'd coil the ropes and walk off. Mar 13, 2014
such a phenomenal line. it's a shame it's so short. good footwork will get you through the crux with forearm pump to spare. Mar 10, 2013
Matt Desenberg
North Berwick, ME
  5.11a
Matt Desenberg   North Berwick, ME
  5.11a
Super fun. The feet are better than you might think, too. Nov 16, 2010
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
The FA did take 3 days and was Yo Yoed. Jun 6, 2010
Jeremiah Johnson
Contoocook, NH
 
Jeremiah Johnson   Contoocook, NH
 
Great climb; I just wish it was longer. Jan 18, 2010
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
That's what I was told , Jay. Remember it was way dirty AND Henry was prolly removing the gear after every attempt. Gearing this climb, like Heather is much easier with Rocks and small cams too. Nov 4, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Three days? Really? Sep 30, 2009
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Henry, Bob Anderson and John Bragg- 3 days for the ffa ! Sep 30, 2009
Chris Graham
Bartlett, NH
Chris Graham   Bartlett, NH
I want to get this one clean this season...it is a beautiful, albeit painful route! Jun 16, 2009
It is almost a "give-away" for little fingers. May 5, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
never can tell Micheal... but its not that bad there are just a few spots that take a while to dry out after rain or in the spring melt... Mar 7, 2009
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
ooOOOooo! i wanna get oh this this summer! when will it dry out? Mar 6, 2009
Ladd    
Seriously sharp, protect the bottom with blue and green Aliens. Apr 18, 2007